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During riveting of the connecting link on a new motorcycle chain (DID525VX), I accidentally overpressed the link's plate by 1mm. I'm wondering if it's a big deal and I should replace it, or I can continue riding with that overpressed link?

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    Are those riveted joints seized, or do they still move? As long as they still move you're probably fine to ride it for the time being. That said, rivet links should be about $10 max. For the price, you might want to try again for peace of mind if nothing else. – raydowe Jul 17 '18 at 13:40
  • The joint is moving fine, it doesn't create a kink in the chain. I was convinced by answers here to replace the link anyway. I've already ordered a new link. Last time my cheap riveting tool barely held up, so my concern is that whether it'll withstand another riveting procedure. – qwaz Jul 18 '18 at 6:48
  • Not sure what your riveting tool is like, but even $30 tools in the red/blue blow molded cases should hold up fine. That's what I use. The trick is grinding the rivet heads off before breaking the chain. They're supposed to be strong enough to break a 530 chain without grinding the head, but it puts a lot of stress on the pin in the tool. Won't take long to break them doing that. – raydowe Jul 18 '18 at 11:43
  • I have the red mold $30 tool, up to 530 chain. I grind rivet heads when I break a link, the tool worked fine for breaking ground pins, but when riveting with the pusher with half-sphere on the end did not rivet pins, link-pin shaved the half-sphere, so that I had to replace it with strong metal nail and a bearing ball, this worked, but threads on the tool got a little damaged from the pressure, so that I can't screw it with a hand or supplied t-bar anymore, only with a wrench. – qwaz Jul 18 '18 at 16:33
  • Threads shouldn't be put under enough strain to cause damage when riveting a link. It's suggested to put some grease on the threads, which may help. For the cost, I'd be inclined to look at a replacement tool as well. – raydowe Jul 19 '18 at 12:21
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I would replace it - it might cause more wear both on itself and the sprockets and fail earlier.

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I'm not sure what the consequences of a chain failure are on a motorcycle, but at least on a bicycle (having experienced a chain failure on a bicycle), it's not nice to have your chain to fail! It will hurt, because it fails when pedaling hard, so you might lose balance. On a motorcycle the chain speeds are much higher, so the way it might hurt you could differ.

Not only that, but at least your journey will end when the chain fails.

I agree you should not continue driving with your chain in the present condition.

However, a slight disclaimer: as my experience of chains is from derailleur bicycles, I might be a bit too careful here. Derailleur bicycle chains are very small for the job they do, everything is as miniaturized as possible to fit as many gears into the system as possible. On a motorcycle, not having derailleur gearing, the chain can be much larger and thus the error margin is better.

  • Consequences = very bad. The chains are much bigger, usually weighing between 3-5lbs. The chain usually either: 1) Wraps itself around the rear wheel causing a crash or running wide through a corner, or 2) destroys the engine case near the front sprocket, leaking oil in front of the back tire, causing the same crash or running wide. Speeds can obviously be much higher on motorcycles, so any mechanical failure can be life or death. – raydowe Jul 17 '18 at 13:36
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I think your biggest problem is going to be the squashed X-rings. They are meant to be squished slightly so that they form a good seal with the metal plates, but an extra mm is going to crush them. They will likely crack or degrade very quickly, allowing the chain lube to exit and dirt and crud to enter.

For the cost of a new master link, I would start over and try again.

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