Is there a reason why condensation would be dripping from a van that isn't blowing cold when the AC is set to Max and recirculate? It's a 99 Chrysler Town and country. It is a manual temp control unit.
Best regards, Lance
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2Bad blend door motor may be. Whats the YMM? Auto or manual AC?– BenMay 30, 2018 at 2:21
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I've seen bad blend door motors or the control module for the temp. control unit. How's the engine temp gauge? There's a chance it could be thermostat related if that's high, as well.– Tom CallahanMay 30, 2018 at 4:20
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The temp gauge is in the normal range.– LanceMay 30, 2018 at 12:40
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The heater may also have a tap/solenoid and that may be bad as well. Also, have the system leak checked and the original charge restored. Might be the time if it has never been done. Low charge makes the evaporator freeze and then thaw in a cycling fashion and that gives lots of condensation dripping and no vent airflow (which can be interpreted as hot air since the cabin temperature can't be affected by such a low airflow; the cooling performance also decreases per se).– Al_May 30, 2018 at 12:43
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My friend said that the AC was working and then suddenly started blowing hot. She turned it off and back on assuming that it would come back to cool but it didn't.– LanceMay 30, 2018 at 12:51
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2 Answers
most automotive a/c units have a low pressure sensor on or near the dryer ,so if it go low the unit will not engage so im saying its the door in the unit that switches from hot to cold or visa versa ..it is usually controlled by a cable or vacuum operated switch the door and or cable connect usually on the passenger side under the dash you may have to pull the glove box to access or get a flashlight and look under the passenger side while moving the switch on the controls a cable will sometimes work lose if so is an easy fix usually put it back on by hand sometime requires a screwdriver of a lose screw holding clamp that holds cable in place ,,if it is vacuum operated then you have to find the leak and replace hose could be under the hood for vacuum hose broken or came lose hope this helps
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Can be a lot more subtle than no operation at all. If you're on low charge it might be enough for the LP switch to actually sense enough pressure, but not for the whole evaporator coil/coils to be sprayed thoroughly with semiliquid refrigerant by the OT or TXV. That way, the beginning of the evaporator will soon coat with ice, and that ice will then begin developing across the whole evaporator, progressively restricting airflow and reducing cooling capacity until the LP switch trips and the compressor stops operating.– Al_May 30, 2018 at 20:04
My vote is for the blend door. If its a manual AC system, the blend door should be directly connected to the temp nob - on my Early 2000 and later 1990s Chyrsler it was a cable. On 2000 Durango, the cable came off and the blend door was stuck in one position. Cable was accessible just above glove box (I think I had to remove the glove box). There was noticeably less tension on the control knob.
