I have a Suzuki Gixxer 155 2015 model.

After going to a shop for vulcanizing my rear tubeless tire, it felt like I was carrying a very heavy load. It was a very heavy traffic in my area so I used 1st. gear, stopping then accelerating then stopping and accelerating and so on. At this point the road was ascending, and my bike lost power and became very hot.

I immediately pulled over and waited it to cool down, and I noticed that the brake rod was stuck-off by the rubber dumper near the pipe. I pulled it up to release it, but when I started again there was a grinding sound when I pressed half clutch and every time i twist the accelerator in a half clutch there is always a grinding sound until I fully release the clutch.

I replaced my clutch plate with a new one, but the grinding sound is still there. What seems to be the problem with my bike?

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    Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! Apr 7, 2018 at 12:04

2 Answers 2


The 2015 gxsr 155 has a rear drum brake. So as you say the rear wheel has been off, I suspect that the drum brake has been adjusted badly OR the adjustable cammed nut that is used for adjusting the brake is in the wrong position. This could also be why the clutch has started making a noise etc. It's perhaps failed due to the rear brake binding, as thid will putting a heavy load on the clutch leading to slippage, overheating & failure. Especially as you described the bike as 'feeling as though it was pulling a heavy load.'

If the clutch has failed, replacement can be done quite cheaply but get that diagnosed/confirmed by a trained bike mechanic first. As it would be a good idea just to make sure the engine didn't have any other associated issues.

As far as the rear drum brakes go.. the adjuster is a recessed nut/cam on a shaft directly from the foot brake. This cammed nut should sit located properly in an obvious specific 'U' cupped position. If its not in this possition or its adjusted too tight your rear brake will bind, just as you describe.

If your not sure on doing the following, either check your manual or download it and read the section about rear brake adjustment, its pretty easy. IF YOUR TOTALLY UNSURE THOUGH, TAKE THE BIKE TO A GOOD MECHANIC!

All the following items are adjusted together and affect each other due to suspension movement... So you'll need to make sure that the chain is adjusted properly, the rear wheel is aligned correctly by checking the axle alignment against the rear swingarm axle markings. And then that the rear brake is adjusted properly.

It's easier if the bike is either on a trackstand, it's mainstand (if it has one) or carefully jacked up so that the rear wheel is just off the ground. MAKE SURE THE BIKE CAN'T SLIP OR FALL SIDEWAYS!

Don't totally undo.. But just loosen off both the rear wheel main axle nuts & washers, and also the two 10-12mm axle adjuster nuts at the very rear of the swingrm, so that the wheel can slide a little in its sliders/runners.

Now undo the rear brake cam nut a good few turns so that it wont affect any axle/wheel adjustments.

Now that everything is loose. Give the rear wheel a few firm knocks from behind to move it forward slightly in the swingarm runners. You should notice the chain loosen.

Now you can start adjusting everything back up.

Whilst CONTINUALLY checking the chain tension, slowly turn the smaller rearmost swingarm adjustment nuts clockwise on both sides.. NOTE: Whilst keeping your eyes on the above also watch the main axle nuts and washers positions in relation to the markings on the sides of the swingarm, these should line up EQUALLY on both sides, meaning that the rear wheel is located correctly in line within the swingarm!! CHECK CHAIN TENSION AGAIN and AGAIN!

If further adjustment is necessary. Repeat the above untill you get everything correctly to spec.

NOW RETIGHTEN THE MAIN AXLE NUTS TO CORRECT TORQUE!!! You can also just nip-up very slightly the smaller adjustment nuts, only enough so that they won't come loose. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM RIGHT UP!!

Now you can adjust the footbrake.. Just turn the cammed nut untill it starts to touch the pin in the brake lever rod. PRESS THE FOOTBRAKE to test.
If the brake pedal feels too loose, tighten the cammed nut little by little. KEEPING AN EYE TO MAKE SURE THE RECESS IN THE NUT IS LOCATED/SEATED CORRECTLY.

Allow some movement in the footbrake before the brake actually bites, otherwise it will bind everytime the rear suspension moves upwards.

As mentioned though.. If you're at all unsure here, have a qualified mechanic do this job for you.

  • Thank you very much for the instruction sir, but I already did all of the above, the grinding sound is inside the clutch housing, the sound come out during a quick acceleration just a fraction before the clutch fully engage then gone when the clutch fully engage.
    – ace
    Apr 10, 2018 at 11:05
  • Thank you very much for the instruction sir, but I already did all of the above, the grinding sound is inside the clutch housing, the sound come out during a quick acceleration just a fraction before the clutch fully engage then gone when the clutch fully engage.I already replace all the clutch friction plate and the clutch steel plate except the clutch hub and the pressure plate.
    – ace
    Apr 10, 2018 at 11:14

OK so the previous clutch plates, basket and springs etc have previously been 'extremely' hot due to the resistance and load and slipping caused by the binding rear brake.

In this case only replacing the plates may not be enough, as the springs have also been subjected to a lot of heat. Assuming you are using the correct oil grade & amount of oil in the gearbox.. I would replace the springs too as they may have become weaker, especially if the clutch basket etc have been overheated caused by the problematic brake binding and thus necessary slipping to get the bike going whilst under such load.

Just a note.. The wrong oil or amount of it can cause issues with wet clutches. This alone can sometimes create a sound sort of like a grinding growl or heavy squeal as the clutch is slipping before trying to become fully engaged.

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