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Going to help out my neighbor today with his Charger. He's been having a lot of drive-ability issues, "Rev Hang" or the Speedo and Tach sweeping in sync etc.

We scanned it and got two CMPS codes. He had a dealer tech look the car over, and confirmed the CMPS needs to be replaced. It doesn't seem like there's anything but R&R and proper torque... But just to be sure, for this car:

  1. Other than battery disconnect, is there anything that should be done for the removal and/or replacement of the Sensor?

  2. Should the code(s) be manually cleared, or just allow the computer to see the new sensor and set/resolve the code on its own?

  3. Torque Spec? AutoZone(?AllData?) says 105 in-lbs/12 ft-lbs

  4. Anything else I should know?

Thank you for your time.

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Changing out the camshaft position sensor is really straight forward on the 2.7l V6 Chrysler engine. It really is an R&R procedure. You'll need the sensor, a 13mm wrench (or socket/ratch if it will fit), a torque wrench (if you like), and possibly a flat tip screwdriver.

Other than battery disconnect, is there anything that should be done for the removal and/or replacement of the Sensor?

No. That's about all you need to do in preparation for removal.

Should the code(s) be manually cleared, or just allow the computer to see the new sensor and set/resolve the code on its own?

You could do it either way, but I'd clear the codes after the replacement, but before first startup. Depending on how long it takes you to replace the sensor, the codes may be cleared anyway due to the lack of battery power. You can check for them to see before first startup. You're not going to hurt anything by clearing them.

Torque Spec? AutoZone(?AllData?) says 105 in-lbs/12 ft-lbs

12 lb-ft is the correct spec. If you cannot fit a socket/torque wrench in where the retaining bolt is at, tighten the bolt to where it is snug and maybe just a hint more torque. You don't need to go Hercules on it. Just make it a little past snug and it'll be fine.

Anything else I should know?

You might want to slick the o-ring with a little bit of fresh engine oil prior to inserting it into the block. This will ensure it goes in without hanging up or damaging the o-ring. If you don't have any clean/fresh engine oil, don't go buy a new quart just to do this. You could use the engine oil off of the dipstick to do it as well. You just want some kind of lubrication on there is all (read: insurance).

Don't be afraid of it. This should really be a very short and easy job.

If you are really curious about it, I found this video on YouTube which goes over it very well. Most of the Chrysler/Dodge 2.7l V6 engines are exactly the same.

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    I'd like to add the fact that Chrysler/Dodge products are very fussy about their cam and crank sensors. Dealer price is usually comparable to aftermarket ones and don't come with different symptoms that could have you chasing your tail looking for different causes. – Milison Mar 31 '18 at 12:18
  • @Milison. Thanks. I've heard about this, as well. After having bad results trying to find a cross for the Mopar part, the owner is going to go with the Mopar-Branded Part. – NitrusInc Mar 31 '18 at 14:52
  • @Paulster2 : Thank you. Good tip about lubing the O-Ring! – NitrusInc Mar 31 '18 at 14:54

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