I'm struggling to identify the cause of a misfire condition in my 1998 Honda Civic. It has D16Y7 engine with 185,000 miles on it.
The spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil were all replaced a year ago when a different misfire condition developed. It has run perfectly even since.
Last week under heavy load (going up a hill on the highway) the engine started losing power and the check engine light started flashing. The codes were
- P0300 - random misfire
- P0301 - misfire cylinder 1
- P0303 - misfire cylinder 3
Naturally, I checked the ignition components first, since they have been problematic in the past.
The spark plugs looked good. Golden brown in color.
Plug wires were good. Resistance within specification and rubber in good condition.
Cap and rotor were clean inside and little wear on the contacts.
Ignition coil was within manufacturer specification.
I turned to the service manual, which provided a troubleshooting chart for DTCs P0300 in combination with any of P0301-P0304. It had different directions for the type of misfire (high rpm, low rpm, etc). I cleared the codes and took the car for a test drive until the check engine light came on again. The misfire seems to occur at low rpm and high load. The codes were again:
- P0300 - random misfire
- P0301 - misfire cylinder 1
- P0303 - misfire cylinder 3
Following this guide, it indicated that the next thing to check was the fuel pressure. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but I went ahead and replaced the fuel filter. Next it said to check the ICM (ignition control module or ignitor). The service manual provides no way to test the functionality of this component. It only has a procedure for testing the inputs to the modules and says to replace it if the inputs are normal. Finally, it said to check the valve clearances. I did this and all the valves were within specification.
I'm stumped as to what can be causing this misfire. The fact that cylinder 1 and 3 misfire DTCs came back after clearing the computer makes me think that it is a cylinder specific problem. I don't want to blindly replace components in the hopes that it will fix the problem. What other tests can I do to rule out spark plugs, wires, ICM, or what other problem might cause this to happen?