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I can’t get the tailgate alarm to go off on 2014 Ford Escape. Is there a way to bypass switch? Here is a picture of inside latch of two pieces that were epoxied together at one time but was apart when I first looked into latch.enter image description here

  • Is this for the normal or power lift gate? What do you mean by alarm? Do you mean the lift gate always shows as being open? – Ben Feb 7 '18 at 2:10
  • @Ben This picture is of inside latch mechanism on door itself. It is not of the kind where you use foot to open. You use hand to disengage latch and hydraulic arms move door up and down. By alarm, I mean a verbal message on center display of instrument panel and symbol message at bottom of display panel and on backup camera. It is notifying that luggage door is ajar. It always shows open – georgia-guy Feb 7 '18 at 2:21
  • Hydraulics? It’s either gas filled support shocks and you lift the gate or an electric motor that opens the liftgate. Can you take a picture of the connector? There are two different ways the BCM detects the lift gate being ajar depending on which type you have. – Ben Feb 7 '18 at 2:24
  • I don’t know why I said hydraulics. It is gas filled shocks. No electrical motor. – georgia-guy Feb 7 '18 at 2:35
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On that MY Escape the BCM looks for a ground on terminal 47 of the C2280B connector. Normally with the liftgate closed it will be. With the liftgate open the circuit goes open (It may have ignition voltage, more than likely it does). You can confirm this by probing terminal 4 (Yel/Org) at the liftgate switch if you can’t gain access to the BCM.

It is best to check the circuit before condemning the latch switch.

Manually close the latch and backprobe the liftgate latch connector terminal 4. It should be grounded. If it’s not check terminal 3 (Blk/Wht) for ground. If you’re missing ground on terminal 3 check for continuity between terminal 3 and the G400 ground in the right D pillar.

If you’re missing the ground on terminal 3 and the continuity test shows the circuit as being open. Check the harness that runs between the car body and liftgate.

If you have ground on terminal 3 and terminal 4 with the latch closed check for continuity between terminal 4 of the liftgate latch connector and terminal 7 of the BCM C2280B connector.

If you have ground on terminal 3 and not 4 with the latch closed. You can either replace the latch or short terminal 4 to ground by splicing the terminal 3 & 4 wires together.

  • The warning wont come on unless engine is cranked up. I'll try what you said in next few days. Thanks for your help. – georgia-guy Feb 7 '18 at 2:56
  • I was able to get warning to go off temporarily when I had issues with latch not working. The door would close but not lock and the warning went off. Will I need to take all of tailgate panel off to test it? I don't have any diagrams to go off of. Will I be test just with am multiimeter? – georgia-guy Feb 7 '18 at 4:25
  • @dwhorne yah you’re going to have to take the interior panel off. A multimeter would work fine. – Ben Feb 7 '18 at 17:39
  • I feel certain that problem is that those two pieces in picture above are not connected to each other. Will epoxy hold it together or something stronger? – georgia-guy Feb 8 '18 at 0:18
  • The constant jarring every time door opens and heat concerns me . Do you think epoxy is worth trying or just get a part. I had some netting that got caught up in latch originally. I think jerking on door and latch broke original bond. – georgia-guy Feb 8 '18 at 0:39

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