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The problem is that either someone didn't use anti-seize or someone forced in the plugs wrong (or both) because I've had the jolliest time trying to remove them from this 2002 Nissan sentra 1.8. I actually resorted to using a breaker bar after wearing myself out on the first three plugs, and ended up snapping the plug to pieces. Then (to make matters worse) I watched a video on YouTube about using jb weld puddy to get a grip on a stripped plug (by stuffing your socket with the stuff, placing the socket on the plug, letting it set, then trying to remove) and ended up with a bunch of jb weld I the bottom of the well, dried and immovable. Now I can't even get my spark plug socket deep enough to grab the plug! I removed the the head because I wanted to change all the gaskets anyway so this picture is basically what I'm working with. Any help would be appreciated!

Note Picture one is of a clean well (cylinder#3) Picture two is of the debris that seems immovable.enter image description hereenter image description here

  • There are many questions on this topic already. – Solar Mike Jan 21 '18 at 7:26
  • It looks like you need to use a heavy duty pick and hammer and chip away at that jb welb. Use compressed air to blow away debris. – Ben Jan 21 '18 at 15:45
  • Thank you Ben for your suggestion. That is in fact what I did, but I also had to break the top of the spark plug off so I could slap a smaller socket on there to take off the rounded plug...as for the debris : my head was off the block so I just dumped the stuff out 😁 – Nathaniel Davidson Jan 22 '18 at 1:11
  • I thought the question was repairing the "damage" from globs of stuck JB weld and a marred seat, not how to remove a broken spark plug. In that respect I don't think the question was a duplicate. The objective seemed to change over time. – SteveRacer Jan 23 '18 at 5:35
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In my opinion, that needs to be machined out. I cannot see a clean plug seat chamfer at all, which leads to to suspect the eventual removal process has damaged this surface.

This area has enough "meat" to allow careful re-machining, eliminateing all the muck and dreck and JBweldysnort to a nice perfectly clean plug bore.

Other than the aesthetic, really the only critical area is where the spark plug seats. If this can be cleaned up without too much hassle and material removal, you should be fine.

I'd suggest a machinist if you don't have access to a milling machine or at least a solid industrial drill press, and some machining knowledge. If you do decide to DIY, set depth stops and increment no more than 0.005 inches (5 thou) each pass, followed by careful cleaning and inspection.

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