1

I have just spent 14+ hours under my SAAB removing and replacing two oil cooler hoses, one tap of a hammer on a punch on a hose pipe flange at a time. That doesn't count all the research time prior nor the ordering time, nor the time spent trying to find out where was the part I paid "Urgent Shipping" for.

I finally got the rear of the hoses in after being stonewalled on Friday. Dremel tools are handy. (Beveled the leading edges and trimmed the OD . . .) I got the front parts in as well, turned on the car and leaks. I pulled them back out and put a different O-ring on - Genuine Saab (yellow) - which was a tad thinker, and reinstalled. Drips. I tapped the pipe in a bit more and tightened the nut, turned on the car and now a steady stream !

Some of you pros love working on cars. It is becoming apparent the Universe doesn't want me to work on cars anymore . . . Probably never did.

By then it was dark. I came up with three possibilities: 1. Get a new oil cooler. I looked that up and they are rare and pricey; B. Put two O-rings on and re-install with fingers crossed; III. Use some Permatex Red Gasket Maker, coat the O-ring and some pipe then reinstall and allow to cure.

Why Red ? That's what I have. After reading the excellent answers about the differences and preferred uses of the various gasket makers I would like a recommendation from those in the know which "flavor" gasket maker would be best for this alloy steel into aluminum application. The steel into engine block was impossible until I took "a little off the top" of the OD of the pipe. Now that was a snug fit needing a thousand taps... The female part of the oil cooler could be nylon or just aluminum and I may have created a crack in this 2000 9-5 wagon 2.3 T oil cooler when spending 4 hours just getting these "17 years in NH" oil pipes out. The fittings had "grown" together.

I may remove the oil cooler, two screws, one frozen, to inspect that for cracks near the inlet and outlet. The frozen screw started stripping so I let it lie. No room to get a socket on it.

Temps will be in the 20's at4 night, hopefully 40 mid-week.

Thanks, FotN Almost There . . .

7
  • Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! I'm not exactly visualizing what you did to enable your being able to put this back together, but it sounds like you've done some trimming on parts which create a seal through an interference fit. Lots of pipe fitting have angled bits in the fittings and receivers which fit snuggly together to create a seal. If you've damaged these in anyway, you'll never get a seal. If you could provide some images of the parts and what you did so you could fit them, it would go a long way to being able to help you. Nov 26 '17 at 18:28
  • Hello Paulster ! I was trying to send you a note through your website but "under maintenance" wouldn't let your email address come up. Thanks for the reply.
    – FotN
    Nov 27 '17 at 15:30
  • My website is more a labor of love ... which hasn't seem much love lately. Nov 27 '17 at 15:31
  • How'd that happen ? Somehow this part of my reply got sent before I sent it and the important part got chopped. The parts I doctored, going into the engine block do not leak. Without altering they were not going in. The hose pipes into the oil cooler went in fairly easily with no alteration but leak. I suspect there may be a fracture in the oil cooler inlet "nipple". I'll be taking the cooler off when it gets above freezing today to check. Looking for the best way to seal 1. The O-ring area; or 2. The oil cooler nipple fracture if that's the problem. Thinking JB Weld or the like. Thanks.
    – FotN
    Nov 27 '17 at 15:41
  • If it's fractured, you could possibly braise it. If not, replacement. JBWeld can work wonders, but I'm not sure it's going to fix your ills in this case. Nov 27 '17 at 15:43

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.