I have a 2011 chevy malibu and the other day went to start it and it started but seemed a little hesitant then the next day won't start without a jump. Every time you turn the car off you have to jump it again. Took it to oriellys they tested the battery it was fine but alternator was bad. Replaced it with a new one and car still won't start without a jump. Not sure what is going on with it. Any ideas on what could be the issue?
-
1Did they or you recharge and retest the battery once the new alternator was installed? Did anyone check for draw? Does the alternator charge now? How did they determine that it was the alternator at fault?– BenCommented Oct 9, 2017 at 21:33
-
Maybe you got ICM or crank sensor going bad– user38183Commented Oct 6, 2018 at 10:29
-
If the alternator was bad, it wouldn’t continue to run for very long after the jump.– 3DaveCommented Jan 3, 2019 at 22:05
Add a comment
|
4 Answers
Clean the terminals and clamp connectors. These can form even a thin coating of corrosion that is nonconductive.
Judging by the age there is a chance that the brushes in the starter motor are worn. It is also possible that the battery ground wire has corroded. The length of wire starts from the battery and runs to the chassis and engine. If either one is damaged, the mentioned problem shows up.
Just ran into that problem. Told alternator was bad car would not start. The alternator to starter wire cooked the positive post on the starter. Move the positive wire from battery to see if you have the same issue.
Ive seen this problem over and over online. And ppl replace/repair everything to no avail. Even their own mechanics cant figure it out. ITS AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE IN THE FUSE BOX. If it seems to start up easily cold, and u have problems starting it once youve driven it awhile its a fault in the fuse box. The heat from the engine will reduce the copper wires conductivity, which is the flow of electricity. And when it cools it works again. This short can be in the fuse box itself OR be in the starter solenoid itself. And unless a mechanic catches it at the exact moment of the short, the relay will test out ok and functioning. Unfortunately the fix for this isnt very simple bc it requires the fuse box to be opened and split to view and solder where the weakness is. Or a direct connection where the short is. The the fuse box replacement which is very very very pricey. And the only one a certified mechanic will do is the latter. Heres a couple youtube videos to explain
https://youtu.be/QKAlnxkMykw (this is long and boring and not in layman's terms at all. The problem is found and directly address at about 7:40 into the video)
