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I have a 2013 Honda Accord 2.4L and I'm trying to decide on getting a battery with a higher voltage or getting a new starter. I've experienced an unusual starting problem. If I turn the car on the "on" position without the engine running and I stay in the car for 30+ minutes, it will not crank over. I will here click noise and it sounds like it will turn over but after two seconds, cuts off. The lights in the dashboard all flash at once. I've tested my battery, starter, alternator and they all passed.

Here's the kicker; if I wait 10=15 minutes and then try to start the car, it starts right up! Also the lights, accessories, doors, etc...are not affected.

  • What kind of higher voltage battery are you considering? – cory Jun 23 '17 at 19:42
  • @cory - I would bet the OP used "higher voltage" in the wrong context and actually meant a battery with more power (CCA), but I'll let the OP speak for themselves. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Jun 23 '17 at 20:21
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    You're correct Paulster, I currently have a 12V battery and deciding on whether to get one with a higher voltage – Noah Jun 23 '17 at 22:00
  • your honda can only use an automotive type battery. They are all nominally the same voltage which is about 12.6. Of course its entirely possible you need a new battery, but it should be the same type as the original. – agentp Jun 23 '17 at 22:07
  • Have the Battery Load tested, I bet it is bad, replace it. – Moab Jun 23 '17 at 23:42
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Well since the motor isn't running, I would rule out the alternator specially since it does start later.

I would check for a corroded and/or loose lead wire to the starter, turning the ignition switch to on could be causing an arc in the lead wire allowing a reduced amperage flow and overheating at the arc area which would restrict the amperage flow even more, turning the ignition off would then allow it cool and allow greater amperage flow, just my swag.

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What you have described is very possibly a battery that is about to fail. OR the alternator is not keeping the battery fully charged.

Rather than just guess, it would be wise to have both the battery and the charging system tested.

It is probably not an issue with the starter. If the starter works as expected when there is enough power in the battery, then that is not the problem and a new one will not resolve the problem you are experiencing.

  • I must've forgot to mention this. I've had the battery, alternator, and starter all tested and they were all fine. – Noah Jun 23 '17 at 18:49
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    Well, yes, that would have been an important thing to know. You might want to add that to your question. – CharlieRB Jun 23 '17 at 18:55
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Clean the terminals, both male and female. Even thin corrosion can impede currant flow-sometimes as diodes.

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Top 7 Reasons Why Your Car Won’t Start? Is it the Battery, Alternator, Spark Plug or Starter Problem? Maybe this article will help you know the problem. Poor electrical connections at battery terminals.When the pile head contact bad, it may produce too large resistance, making the power can not be successfully transmitted to the starter motor, the simplest way to check is to shake the positive and negative pile head, if loose, please use the appropriate tool lock.The another problem would be the Fuel Delivery Problem. A car needs spark, air and gas in order to run. A clogged fuel filter won't allow the fuel to pass in high enough quantities to be able to get to the engine to run. The fuel pump can also fail, meaning there is no way for the car to pump gas to the engine.

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The problem you describe is almost certainly a flat battery.

The most likely thing is that the battery has got to the end of its life and needs to be replaced.

You can get it tested, this requires a tester which puts it under load, just measuring the voltage across the terminals doesn't tell you much.

When the ignition is on the car will use a certain amount of electrical power and if the battery is already low this can drain it enough that it won't start. It's not unusual, if the battery is only just too flat to turn the engine over that it can recover just enough in 10 minutes or so.

Starting is by far the biggest load on the battery in terms of current so it can easily be too flat to start the car but still be able to power lights etc.

If this only happens when the car has been on for a while then that strongly suggests that the battery is on the way out, typically a battery will last something like 5-7 years but it can be less if it is allowed to go completely flat eg if the car isn't started for several months.

It is also possible that if you mostly drive short distances the battery never gets fully charged so you could try charging the battery with a mains charger and see if that fixes the problem.

It could also be that there is a problem with the alternator or some other part of the charging system or that you have an electrical fault somewhere which is draining the battery more quickly than usual but if the problems only occurs after it has been left on for a while this is less likely.

  • Actually, you don't need a load tester, you need a capacity tester. The issue seems to be that the battery can provide enough power for the load, but cannot do so if it is drained. If it is left for a while to recover, it can again provide enough power for the load. So a load test would indicate the battery is fine especially if performed on a battery that has had some rest, but a capacity test would indicate it has only an amp-hour or two of capacity left. – juhist Dec 22 '17 at 13:06
  • The point is that you need to test a battery under load to check its condition ie whether or not you need a new battery. – Chris Johns Dec 22 '17 at 17:32

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