Remember when you're looking at the pulling the engine, you'll have everything pulled off of it (alternator, intake tract, A/C compressor, power steering pump, etc.). This will leave a lot of good lifting points for you.
This is strictly my opinion, but the way I tend to always lift an engine is to utilize a length of chain. I'm talking decent chain with welded links. The chain should be long enough to go from the front of one cylinder head to the back of the other cylinder head, with plenty of slack. What I mean by slack, is enough chain to allow about 8-10" of of room above the engine when you start lifting. This gives you the ability to adjust the engine on the chain after it starts to come free of the truck.
Looking at the cylinder heads, the ends look like a great source for putting the chain. Here are the front and back of a cylinder head:
Find the correct size bolt to fit into one of the holes. If it was me, I'd select the top one, just above the freeze plug, but all three appear to be the same size hole. On the bolt, place a fairly large flat washer, then put the bolt through the chain and cinch it down into the whole. You want it to hold the chain tight, but you don't want to crank on it. Once both ends are in the head, you're ready to lift.
The reason I use the end of the head instead of using an intake bolt hole is because in the end of the head your faster is getting pulled against the rest of the head material around it, which in the long run makes it very secure. If you are lifting directly against the an intake bolt, you are only being held by the threads which are there. Those will give way much sooner than will the holes in the end of the head.
If anything here doesn't make sense to you, please just ask.