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Mine is a V6 3.0L. This picture isn't of my engine but it looks the same. I haven't seen any lift points but I haven't looked very hard for them. Someone told me you can just take a couple bolts out of the intake and put them back in through the chain. But unless there are some long bolts on the left side of the intake it won't balance right when I lift it up.

Edit - I forgot to say that I only need to lift the engine ~4". enter image description here

Edit2 - Went home and looked and apparently the bolt holes suggested by Paulster2 are already exposed. Happy day!

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Remember when you're looking at the pulling the engine, you'll have everything pulled off of it (alternator, intake tract, A/C compressor, power steering pump, etc.). This will leave a lot of good lifting points for you.

This is strictly my opinion, but the way I tend to always lift an engine is to utilize a length of chain. I'm talking decent chain with welded links. The chain should be long enough to go from the front of one cylinder head to the back of the other cylinder head, with plenty of slack. What I mean by slack, is enough chain to allow about 8-10" of of room above the engine when you start lifting. This gives you the ability to adjust the engine on the chain after it starts to come free of the truck.

Looking at the cylinder heads, the ends look like a great source for putting the chain. Here are the front and back of a cylinder head:

enter image description here

enter image description here

Find the correct size bolt to fit into one of the holes. If it was me, I'd select the top one, just above the freeze plug, but all three appear to be the same size hole. On the bolt, place a fairly large flat washer, then put the bolt through the chain and cinch it down into the whole. You want it to hold the chain tight, but you don't want to crank on it. Once both ends are in the head, you're ready to lift.

The reason I use the end of the head instead of using an intake bolt hole is because in the end of the head your faster is getting pulled against the rest of the head material around it, which in the long run makes it very secure. If you are lifting directly against the an intake bolt, you are only being held by the threads which are there. Those will give way much sooner than will the holes in the end of the head.

If anything here doesn't make sense to you, please just ask.

  • Thanks for the answer. Can I get out of this without doing all of that work? I'm lifting the engine to change the oil pump and the manual says I'll have to lift it about 4" total. Right now I have the radiator, ac, power steering, alternator, and actually even the water pump off. but I don't have any of the wires or tubes above the engine off. I'd prefer not to go any deeper into the engine but I will if that's the only safe way? What about the exhaust manifolds? I don't have to disconnect them, do I? – user1873073 Apr 25 '17 at 21:01
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    Yes, absolutely. I'd bet at least one of the bolt holes on the front is open (one side or the other) and all of the holes would be open in the back (most likely). In fact, I'd bet you could make a loop in the front somewhere across the two heads and form a lift point. You have plenty of options to choose from. You don't have to remove all of the stuff. I apologize for assuming you were thinking of taking the engine out, but the same premise remains ... use the holes which provide the best chance of surviving, which to me are these end holes in the cylinder head. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Apr 25 '17 at 21:05
  • Turns out they are already exposed. I'll give them a go. – user1873073 Apr 26 '17 at 15:21

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