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I did something really silly last night :( - I have a 03 Accord V6 sedan that I recently changed the transmission. After I hooked up the new tranny etc.. I noticed when I start the car the SRS, (!) and the ABS lights came on.

I decided to research it and was following a tutorial online where a lot of people tried and it worked: It basically instructs you to bridge pin 4 and 9 on the ODB2 connector, I did just that and saw a little spark - I immediately removed the bridge and tried to start the car to no avail, it cranks well - just wont start up. I hope this is just a blown fuse/relay somewhere. Any help on fuze/relay location to check etc would be highly appreciated.

**Side note to that, now when I put the key in the Ignition the Green key light keeps blinking as if the immobilizer isnt recognizing the key.

By looking at this diagram, Can anyone tell me what shorting out pin 14 and 5 damage? please

Could I coincidentally have a bad key ? fuse? :(

Thanks for the help in advance.

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    Yes, check your fuses, both in the cabin and under the hood. Best place to start. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Mar 9 '17 at 17:31
  • @Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 - i checked all fuse and they are good, I am thinking about getting it to the dealer for them to cut a new key - I am honestly suspicious of this key. – andre3wap Mar 9 '17 at 22:29
  • The key just has a chip in it which responds when energized. They usually don't go bad. Most often it's the transceiver which tries to communicate with the key. My suggestion is to figure out the root cause before you start replacing parts, even a key. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Mar 9 '17 at 22:55
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    A crank with no start -- if the problem truly only began after you jumped the DLC. Not a difficult diagnoses, just simplify the process; scan codes, check immobilizer circuit, disarm (unlock doors) immobilizer if possible. Sounds like an immobilizer issue. You can go into the immobilizer module and verify the key is recognized, in data. Look at Master or Sub-Key, whichever you're using, and look for the unset/set change. – Joey P Mar 10 '17 at 16:30
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    Yes, okay. If that's the case and you have already replaced fuse 8, I'm sure that circuit is okay. You can use your multi-meter to verify voltage at pin 16. After which, scan for immobilizer trouble codes and perform previous inspection recommended above. "scan codes, check immobilizer circuit, disarm (unlock doors) immobilizer if possible. Sounds like an immobilizer issue. You can go into the immobilizer module and verify the key is recognized, in data. Look at Master or Sub-Key, whichever you're using, and look for the unset/set change" – Joey P Mar 19 '17 at 4:50
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Check circuit F28 for open. (Pin 9 DLC to A16 PCM)

Power Management Diagram

EDIT:

Check pin 3 (Immobilizer) to 14 DLC for continuity.

If okay, may be inclined to replace immobilizer as first course of action.

After replacement, consider researching Honda 'automatic key registration'. Unfortunately, I don't have the time to look into it. Recently, I replaced an immobilizer on a Corolla and the automatic key registration procedure was key to 'on' to 'off' position - 5 times.

Power Management Diagram

  • Thanks for the reply Joe, after doing further investigation. I am now seeing that I had actually bridged pin 5 and 14, instead of and 9. :( – andre3wap Mar 9 '17 at 22:28
  • My multimeter should be here tomorrow. Then I will do this test. Just to clarify one point, Per the diagram: Pin 3 is on the Immobilizer attached to the steering column right? then to pin 14 on the ODB2 connector (Where I did the bridging) – andre3wap Mar 10 '17 at 16:33
  • Do this quick check first. Put your meter ground to pin 5 on DLC, and positive lead to pin 14 DLC. If you have voltage there, you know the wire is okay. If not, check fuses on that circuit. If okay, you may be looking at immobilizer replacement. If over your head, tow to dealer. – Joey P Mar 10 '17 at 16:37
  • Thank you sir. I will test this out tomorrow and report back. – andre3wap Mar 10 '17 at 16:42
  • You're welcome. If indeed the immobilizer looks to be at fault, you may have no choice but to bring/tow to dealer. After installing an immobilizer, if there is no automatic key registration procedure, you may be forced to bring to a person with access to the Honda scan tool. – Joey P Mar 10 '17 at 17:09
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After days of researching and getting help from the awesome folks here and other forums, I have finally came to a conclusion, which yeilds success.

The Story: I bought the 2003 Honda Accord V6 from a guy with a transmission issue, (Could not go in reverse) - days after I noticed that the key wasn't unlocking the door when I pressed the buttons, but it would start the car.

I then changed the transmission successfully and noticed that the SRS, ABS and (!) light came on. I wanted to reset them so I was looking at a tutorial that instructed me to bridge pin 4 and 9... I wasn't paying attention and bridged pin 16 and 5 on the DLC, which blew Fuse #8 under the hood:/

The Succes

I finally decided to stop wasting time and I took it to my dealership for a $120 diagnostic... the service tech that I dealt with hinted that it might be the key because he tried to program the buttons to the car and that didn't work. (I was doubting him the whole time due to what I did) :(

Long story short, I left the car and they did a new key and the car is now running fine!!!!!!!!!

Thank to everyone that put a foot forward in order to help me with this, especially Joey P.

I sure learned my lesson. (No more bridging haha)

PS** With military discount the dealership only charged me 120 for the key and reprogramming.

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