4
  • Replaced passenger side tie rod end
  • Alignment done
  • 4 new tires, all balanced
  • Replaced front disc brakes and pads
  • New rattle clips
  • Greased up the caliper pins

Any thoughts?

2008 Dodge Charger 167k miles

6
  • You replaced the rotors? Could be a loose CV joint. If you press the brakes at 75 MPH, does the shaking stop, get worse, or no change?
    – MonkeyZeus
    Commented Feb 22, 2017 at 18:47
  • Inspected wheel hubs and bearings?
    – tlhIngan
    Commented Feb 22, 2017 at 19:00
  • This is too broad and we would need more information. Year, make, model, RWD or AWD, did you look to see if anything was leaking? Have you checked ball joints? When you got under the car did you examine the suspension and driveline? When did this start to happen? What are the road conditions? Commented Feb 22, 2017 at 21:53
  • 1
    top suspension rubber metal bearing, the top sticks up in the engine bay, jack it up on the body and see if you can lift the wheel a little. have a look with a flashlight up under the wing,
    – user26112
    Commented Feb 24, 2017 at 18:36
  • I've got a 1997 Mitsubishi van and it does a similar thing gos A1 but when you hit 70 it vibrates and stops a bit over 80. And doe's it sometimes when iam rolling down a hill with it out of gear and I still can't figure out what it is if you have any luck with yours let me no plz
    – Shayne
    Commented Sep 10, 2017 at 1:04

2 Answers 2

5

A while ago I faced a similar issue. My problem was the tie rods. Quick interjection, you should replace them in pairs. Just like headlights, if one fails, the other is close behind it.

Let's go down a list of possibilities:

  • Tie Rod Inners (You said you replaced the end, which signifies outer to me)
  • Control Arm Ball Joints (front and rear)
  • Wheel Bearings (front and rear)
  • Bushings
  • Steering Rack
  • Subframe

The last two are unlikely. I doubt you'd have problems in your steering rack or with the subframe/subframe mounts.

As for the other possibilities, get the car safely in the air and try to move the wheels by hand. If you grab the wheel at 9 and 3 and shake, you should feel very little play, and only on the front wheels. The rear should be solid. Trying again at 12 and 6, you should have no play. Any play at all can signify your problem. This will help check your tie rods and wheel bearings.

To check your bushings, you can manually try to flex the linked components. The bushings should feel stiff, but pliable. Easy or excessive movement is a problem.

Checking ball joints can be harder since they're usually tightened down tight enough that yo can't feel play in them easily. If you can feel play, there's obviously a problem, but without removing them and testing the ball joint itself, it's harder to diagnose.

2
  • I second checking out the suspension. Watch some youtube videos for checking suspension components. Bushings are a pretty quick visual inspection as they crack and rip off pieces of rubber.
    – jxramos
    Commented Feb 25, 2017 at 1:43
  • 1
    Replaced inner and outer tie rods with Moog fixed the problem, still going strong 180k miles thanks. Commented Jun 4, 2019 at 3:37
3

Check that the new tyres are actually seated ok and that they are running ok too..

When I say running ok.. I mean rotate them off the ground and whilst rotating look firstly from the side of the tyre across the tread to make sure that they are running perfectly level, with no lumps or bumps in the tread height.

Then look in-line with the tread as each tyre is rotating.. Make sure the tread is running perfectly in-line and not side to side. I've had a few previous issues with cheaper new tyres.. The most recent was when the tread was running out of line causing a horrible sideways vibration through the whole of the vehicle, another time was when one new tyre was running in an elliptical fashion like an egg causing a high spot type vibration. I could actually feel the suspension bouncing as the tyre hit the road.. It was only a couple of millimetres out of true too.

A lump or fault in a tyre tread will be counteracted on a wheel balancer but on the road it will still effect the vehicle as it is not just a balance issue, but a physical one.

You must log in to answer this question.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged .