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We have a 2006 Kia Sedona mini van.

It turns over but will not start. We have good compression on all 6 cylinders. We checked all the grounds. We have good spark. Good fuel pressure.Took it to a Kia deslership to fix the TPS codes They put in a new TPS sensor and reprogrammed the PCM.

Codes cleared but still, cranks but no start. You can pull the plugs and they'll be soaked. Dry them off the engine will sound like it wants to start but dies right out. Pull the plugs back out they'll be soaked again. We checked the cam and crank senors on a lab scope but the signals appeared clean and within specs. We tested the mass air flow sensor which our scan tool tells we are supposed to have at 1.0v koeo. it Reads out 2.62v ac and 2.62v dc. At this point we were thinking we had a bad MAF sensor. We replaced with a used one and a brand called Delphi. Neither one changed the value.

We assumed a faulty PCM. Found a used one out of an entourage. We called the dealer to make sure it wasn't a PCM that has the immobilizer which it wasn't. Swapped out the PCM and still the same symptoms persist, same MAF signal. We then checked the wires and connectors from the PCM to MAF. They were all clean and had good continuity. Still crank, no start.

After we had to have the car towed home from the dealership because they couldn't get it running. We wound up with a P0105 MAP code. We were wondering if anyone who is familiar with Kia's could help us out.

  • Does anyone know what the root cause could be?

  • Are there any steps we can take to gather data in order find the source of the problem?

  • It sounds as if the injectors are just dumping fuel at an uncontrolled rate. Not sure what could be causing it, though. You could also ensure the cylinders are completely devoid of fuel. You might try pulling the plugs one at a time, ensure they are dry, then blow the cylinders out with compressed air through the spark plug hole to dry them out. It might take a little bit to dry them out if there's a lot of fuel in them. If this somehow did work, you'll want to check the oil to ensure it isn't cut with gasoline (fuel out of the cylinders leaked into crankcase). Worth a look-see. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Jan 10 '17 at 19:16
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    Any change if you hold the throttle body plate open by hand? Pressing the gas pedal will only work if you have a direct linkage (not electronic). It's a bit of a shot in the dark but if you have an idle air control valve jammed closed maybe it's not allowing enough air for the engine to operate at idle. – atraudes Jan 10 '17 at 23:15
  • Also, be sure to change your oil once you get this sorted out. With all the unburned fuel that's been dumped into the cylinders, at least some of it has washed down the cylinder walls. Fuel in the oil is bad news if you keep running it. – atraudes Jan 10 '17 at 23:20
  • can you post the cam crank correlation? also maybe recheck your spark, if you backprobe the ground wire you should be able to see the primary ignition waveform on that engine/style coil iirc. – Ben Jan 11 '17 at 0:28
  • Ben do you mean the lab scope readings? The wave forms? – Henry Gobiel III Jan 12 '17 at 19:27
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Verify ignition timing. If you have spark, fuel and air confirmed, you probably have an ignition timing issue. Unplug the MAP sensor and try starting the car, if the code was caused by the MAP sensor unplugging it would force the engine to run open loop default parameter instead of relying on faulty data.

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