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My Toyota broke down the other day, so there was some major work done on the engine. Not exactly unexpected (the mileage is somewhat high), but the failure was quite spectacular. Turbocharger ate itself and has been replaced, and while waiting for new one the timing belt, catalizator and alternator has been replaced as well.

Due to that between the failure and the repair there was about 200 km of driving (it was late on Christmas Eve so I figured if I do not drive fast, add engine oil in the meantime and the engine is still running I can go on to get home on that day), so there was about 3l of engine oil sucked from the engine and burned - thus catalizator replacement as it was clogged.

And car runs... differently. It has more power and thus better acceleration, but there is a hole at approx 2000 RPM that wasn't there before when stepping on the accelerator. I'd say before replacement acceleration from about 1500 RPM to 2500 RPM was smoother and faster, especially on 4th/5th gear.

Several times I've noticed momentary loss of power when driving more than 130 kph - felt the car slow down, then after a second or two back on full power and accelerating.

Also, I can now definitely hear the turbo whining when at speeds below 70kph/45mph - which I didn't before (not complaining - like the sound).

Mechanic said there will be smoke from the tailpipe for some time as all that engine oil sucked by turbo has to burn out completely - and there is some light blue smoke when engine is warm. Checking oil levels regularly and it's not decreasing as far as I can determine.

Did about 500km already on new components.

Is this correct? And are other differences/issues described above normal?

EDIT 1:

It looks like it has nothing to do with the turbo. Also, turbo failure at this point cannot be attributed to mechanical failure - more like it fried itself from clogged catalizators (of which this engine has two). The clogging of the catalizator causes reduction in dumping heat from the turbo itself, damaging bearings. and seals of the fan of the turbo. Usually, when the clogging happens, the turbo has limited lifespan (like 5kkm or less) and unless addressing it, replacement is an expensive but very short term fix.

In my case there is also timing belt replacement done not completely, if not incorrectly. It seems this engine needs to have both timing belt and fuel pump set to notches. My fuel filter wasn't - probably - changed during repair. This needs to be addressed, as - according to mechanic presented with the symptoms - cause is the insufficient fuel pressure and quantity...

Fun.

EDIT 2: Just for some other people having problems with their Toyota D4-D car. My problems were initially very light: engine was a bit sluggish at high speed (>130 kph) and could not take it over 155kph, with sometimes "Engine check" light showing and engine suddenly lost all power and was unable to go over 2000RPM. There was also abnormal engine oil consumption of >1L/10kkm. I doubt if at this point repair would be cheaper significantly, but had I knew I would be more conservative with cruising speeds, which would carry me to planned engine rebuild, not to one done in a hurry (that is: at express rates charged by my mechanic, as the repair itself took nearly three days anyway) three months too early.

  • Was the turbo a direct OEM replacement? The symptoms almost sound like the turbo you have now has a higher AR ration than the old one did. AR (Area to Radius) ratio is the ratio between the turbo inlet area and the radius of the turbine (roughly speaking). Think of it as holding your thumb on a garden hose. You decrease the cross section of the inlet you get more velocity, but at the top end less flow. It almost sounds like your new turbo has a lower AR ratio than the old one. More low end power, less high end power, power coming on sooner. – cdunn Jan 9 '17 at 17:30
  • @cdunn - as far as I know it was like for like replacement. However, following your comment I did some research and it's quite possible that while Toyota fitted same engine block in a lot of models, the bits like turbo can be different. I wonder if that's the case... I think another question is in order. – AcePL Jan 10 '17 at 12:18
  • Was a new ( or rebuilt) or used turbo used in this effort? The difference in the engine models should not make a difference in the turbo. If it is made for the displacement of your engine and it fits, there shouldn't be an issue from that direction with it. I don't see how continuing of blowing blue smoke is good, especially after having driven 500km ... all residual oil should have been gone with in the first 100km at the outside, to my way of thinking. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Jan 10 '17 at 15:00
  • @Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 - turbo was replaced with professionally rebuilt one from same engine. As for burning residual oil - sort of agree, but is it possible it needs more time to burn out the oil from exhaust system, while engine is already fine? When I was washing the car, whole rear was very... oily. 3 liters of Castrol Magnatec shouldn't go in smoke that fast? – AcePL Jan 10 '17 at 15:23
  • can you post some scan data? i'd be interested in looking at wastegate duty cycle, fuel trims, load, map, maf and whatever else you can capture at a reasonable rate. – Ben Jan 12 '17 at 3:05

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