I have a 2007 Mazda 3 sedan with ~100,000 miles on it (it's the 2.0L version). Last October, I noticed a significant clanging noise that was coming from the rear of the vehicle whenever I went over some small bump. I was told I had a rear spring that was broken, and had both of the rear springs replaced.

Recently, I have noticed a similar clanging sound coming from the back of the vehicle. I took it to a couple of mechanics, and they said that the rear sway bar links needed to be replaced, and showed me how they were loose and had some give in them.

I performed this replacement myself last weekend, and I've noticed that, for the most part, the clanging has gone away. Unfortunately, it hasn't gone away completely. When I go over a major bump, like a speed bump or other major incline with a sharp drop, I still notice a sound like I noticed before.

It's not as significant as I previously noticed, but I'm kind of at the end of what I know in terms of troubleshooting. If possible, I'd like to fix this myself, because I am trying to learn more about how my vehicle works. I don't know how to go about diagnosing the problem, though.

Could it be that I installed the rear sway bar links incorrectly? I've looked at them, and they don't have the give the old ones had, but the one on the passenger side looks like it's at somewhat of an odd angle... this could be my imagination. Here's a picture of the sway bar link install:

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One thing I may have done incorrectly is that I didn't actually remove the sway bar to install the links, I removed the old links and then flexed the new links into position with the sway bar in place. In hindsight, this was probably not a great idea. :| The nuts are nylon lock-nuts, so I'm hesitant to remove them and try to install it again, since this might screw up the nuts.

Is there someone that might be able to give me some pointers as to what I should look for and how I might be able to fix this problem?

  • This isn't an answer, because I'm not at all sure of it; but I believe that the rear sway bar links might need to be mounted differently. I think I've heard that the passenger side one goes to the inboard side of the sway bar, not the outboard side as you've got it. This is odd because you'd expect the mounting to be symmetrical left to right, and the drivers side link goes on the outboard side. When my repair manual comes in the mail I'll take a look for you.
    – Colin K
    Jul 16, 2012 at 14:17
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    I’m only going to comment because I had the exact same problem... make sure your Jack is tightened and not bouncing around back there 🤫🤭🤨 complete rookie mistake 🤪 Jan 12, 2021 at 21:54
  • @Mazda3Owner I did actually check that first. I even checked to make sure the bolts on all the front and rear seats were tight!
    – jwir3
    Jan 13, 2021 at 22:11

6 Answers 6


One of the most common cause of broken springs are worn out struts. It is possible that the struts are bottoming out. Does the car have a lot of body sway while cornering? Does it keep bouncing if you push down on the bumper real hard five or six times? Is the rubber suspension stop damaged or missing? Notice any oil stains on the strut body? Any of these are signs of worn struts or shocks.

  • I checked pushing down on the bumper really hard about 6 times, and the bouncing stops almost immediately after I'm done with the last push (it goes maybe another halfway up, but then stops). I don't see any oil on the struts when I look at them from underneath. How do I check the rubber suspension stop? Is it on the bottom of the strut body? I don't notice any body sway when cornering, although this car has been really good about sway, so it's difficult to tell (I've never really seen any sway). It's possible I'm getting a bit more now than when it was new, but I can't honestly tell.
    – jwir3
    Jul 12, 2012 at 21:39
  • The suspension stop will be a cone shaped piece of rubber and mounted on the lower control arm or the upper frame/spring mount. Did you check the front bushings where the sway bar mounts? Looking at your photo the left control arm mounting bolt looks shiney, could it be loose? It might also be a bad balljoint. If you are due for a four wheel alignment any worn bushings balljoints should show up during the alignment.
    – mikes
    Jul 13, 2012 at 0:43
  • Turns out the problem was a cracked spring on the passenger side. It was hard to find because it was at the bottom of the rear coil spring. Had to stick my hand up in the spring mount and feel around to find it.
    – jwir3
    Aug 3, 2014 at 18:05

If you've checked everything and it all pans out, I would check the brackets at the top of the rear shocks.

They are made of a very fragile metal (for some reason..) and I had one shatter last year while going over a bridge. Everything worked fine, but when this happens the shock can float around. When mine broke, it didn't make a noise going over every bump and it actually took a while to spot, even though it was a pretty obvious problem.

Long shot, I know, but who knows.


i have a mazda 6 2004 hatch back and it has problems it makes the clinging nose in the back i found out one off the rubber bushing is cracked . so there is some space between the body and frame and they rubb and make it rough and loud when it goes over speed bumps . realy bad i fell like the frame will twist and get even more bad if i dont fix the rubber bushing i think the rest off the bushings will crack not to sure tho.

  • Check those swaybar bushings. Doesn't take much wear of them to end up with a clanging sounds. Jan 20, 2014 at 18:26

Had the same problem on a Mazda 3 2005 Broken rear springs with last half coil sitting in rear control arm Put your finger in it a see if something moves very sharp edges.


The Mazda 5 is a clunking blunder! Sway bar links & bushings on the front began clunking at 35,000 km. Replaced them (100 in parts, did it myself) and not 3 weeks later the rear end starts complaining. Replaced same on the rear (70 in parts) and did not solve it like it had solved the front. Closer examination revealed a bent "lower lateral link" - or perhaps lower "end link" where the bushing was practically gone. This was just on one side. I'm about to replace that and see what happens. The nice thing about these cars, if they're not too rusty is the bolts are relatively straight forward to remove yourself. jack the car up and allow the suspension to hang loose.

Here's a good reference to what I was just saying


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    While a related topic, this answer does not significantly contribute to the op's resolution. Additionally, as the topic is nearly 6 years old, I assume the op has resolved or given up on their problem.
    – user36139
    Mar 20, 2018 at 17:29

I had this issue, changed shocks, springs, roll bar bushings, secured heat shield and anything loose underneath.

Every bump I drove over made me cringe at the rattle. After 3 months of searching.....turns out the brake pads have a tiny spring to keep them in place. Mine were warped and the pads were floating. Took them out, bent them back into shape. No More Rattle!

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