Before I ask the question a couple of things:

  • I'm able to drive my car normally
  • I'm driving the vehicle on a daily basis, taking it to work and then to back home again.

The problem that I have is while releasing the clutch. It doesn't matter what gear it is in, or you could keep the car in neutral and still this problem would happen.

What happens is that I have pressed down the clutch fully (100%) and then slowly start releasing it. While releasing the clutch somewhere around 70% it suddenly gets released immediately. It's like the area between 70%-10% is pretty loose and the clutch moves freely. The resistance is not uniform.

The odd thing is that this "free-movement" issue starts even before the biting point is reached, continues through the biting point and a little more.

What could be the reason for this? It's a Maruti Suzuki Wagon R Duo LXi LPG. It has a cable clutch.

  • What kind of car is it? Is it an hydraulic or cable clutch? It just sounds like you've found the point where the clutch 'bites'. This could be a sign of worn clutch plates and is not uncommon.
    – MeltingDog
    Nov 14, 2016 at 0:50
  • It's a Maruti Suzuki Wagon R Duo LXi LPG. It has a cable clutch.
    – Mugen
    Nov 14, 2016 at 1:35

2 Answers 2


Well, if your clutch system is hydraulic, it may be one of the cylinders or both (not frequent to have both pumps out). This means that the rubber rings inside may be damaged or the cylinder walls themselves, so the rings can get stuck, or have an uneven travel inside the cylinder, or even flip! When it happens, try kicking the pedal twice or so, do it as a test in low speed and in a safe zone, then kick it hard :) like if you got angry about it :) see how it reacts.

If the clutch is wired, then it may be the wires connections on their tips...or if the wire goes through a pipe to channel it, maybe its endings got eaten by the wire and in some point the wire travel is affected.

Any both cases, it seems to me like the clutch "actuator" mechanism, not the clutch itself.

  • It's a wired clutch. Even if the wire endings got eaten the problem seems to lie in between the 10%-70% range. I'm guessing that if there was a problem with the endings then it should have affected the range of motion around the time when the clutch is fully pressed or the time when the clutch is fully released. But both of those points are working fine. It's the range of motion in between. The "free-range" starts before the biting point.
    – Mugen
    Nov 14, 2016 at 1:47
  • 1
    If that's so, then I would blame next the pressure plate: weaken, broke, or almost broke spring tabs, or worn levering elements Nov 14, 2016 at 1:58
  • What about the release bearing or clutch cover fingers as described in another answer here?
    – Mugen
    Nov 14, 2016 at 6:14
  • 1
    Yes, the fingers (what I called levering elements) may be the problem. I think the bearing won't do that since it is always in contact with the pressure disk. To know if the bearing is bad you need to fine tune your ears, put neutral, hear the sound from the car, no gas needed, then step over the pedal just a tiny bit, if the bearing is bad you can see a change in the sound, like if the previous sound gets muted or gets worse. Nov 14, 2016 at 21:40

If its a cable operated clutch mechanism then the cable maybe failing and binding inside its own sleeve, also check to see if the clutch pedal has an adjusting mechanism at the top of it, this type of auto adjuster often fail.

If its not the cable or mechanism the problem is with the clutch itself.. It could be that the release bearing mechanism itself is sticking, or the clutch cover fingers are sticking or binding, either will give the symptoms you describe.

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