I'll make a couple of cogent points, but I doubt I'll be able to organize this coherently.
Go get and read Carrol Smith's Nuts Bolts Fasteners and Plumbing. This is religious tome-level knowledge that will transcend all time. Although mostly about racing and motorsports, the concepts still work and apply to all fastener connections.
Carrol will be quick to tell you that split washers, bellville washers, and so-called "Nylocks" are garbage. DON'T put your reliance on such things.
The reason fasteners stay fastened is ultimately due to TORQUE which creates CLAMPING FORCE. That split washer is NO deterrent to vibration-induced failure when it's crushed flat. Torque is king, and proper torquing methods of utmost importance.
(a) That said, I have not found many automotive applications (especially suspension) that use or require "critical" torque, "torque to yield", "stretch bolts", or other specific fastener requirements. (I'm assuming we are talking about road cars, not Formula 1.) Most applications are pivots in double shear, or have a weak female thread (e.g. weld nut in unibody). The torque requirements specified by the OEM for these applications will be far less than the maximum torque specified for the fastener by the fastener manufacturer, which will be perhaps 80% of the plastic deformation value -- for a so called "critical torque" application. Most cases these bolts will be Grade 8.8 in metric, not 9.8 or 12.9. The possible exceptions I have noticed are seat belt anchors and similar... but not suspension components.
(b) Keep in mind that as much as 75% of the final torque value is used up by friction, not by the bolt stretch which creates the clamping force.
(c) Clamping Force is what keeps the mechanical joint connected. Not friction. Friction only comes into play when the fastener is being torqued. This is why companies like ARP provide their own special lubricant to be used while torquing. The delusional fantasy that your wheels will fall off if you use anti-seize on the studs comes from a long history of misconception about how fasteners work. Lubricants may change [increase] the final torque value. They do not, however, create vulnerability to vibrating loose; in fact more torque makes more clamping force which makes the nut backing off less likely.
Threadlocker compounds, when used properly, work on anything. Even a Nylock, burned out or not. Even Carrol will say that if you can't safety wire, use thread locking compounds. It's still NO excuse not to torque properly.
Also realize that in any male-female threaded connection, there are only 3-4 threads in meaningful contact. Whaaat??? That's right, just like a barstool with more than 3 legs, only 3 bear most of the load. That nylony (probably not a word) bit isn't that meaningful. Super sticky alphacyanoacralate (no matter the color) might be significant.
"Torque to angle" on a suspension component? Never even dreamed of such a wild beast. I hope we are talking cars and not Superbikes or something. In any case, just because a fastener is "torque to angle" does not mean it cannot ever be reused. I submit ARP "American Racing Products" head studs/bolts as exhibit A. The very point of these expensive aftermarket fasteners is their ability to be reused, especially valuable in racing and motorsport applications where heads are removed and replaced frequently. On the other hand, if the OEM says "must replace", you won't finding me suggesting otherwise. (Although you might find me DOING otherwise, but that's my liability, not yours.)
Bottom line: if you have cheap, dirty, and/or rusty nuts, consider replacing them. But if you carefully clean and maintain your nuts, you can reuse them, at least until someone in authority tells you not to.
Proper torque, proper job.
