OK so a guy I know had this car. He put to big a fuse in it because it kept blowing the fuse for taillights and dash lights. Melted wires coming from headlight switch. Got those separated. Still popping fuse for taillights and dash lights. But it's now starts up and everything else is fine. Was reading some where that the wires to the hatch could break and short out where they bend. Bingo , lights fixed. Now everything comes on like it should. But now it won't turn over. Won't click just power up that's it.
So, the problems may be related – or they might not be. It's an easy trap to fall into, assuming that the problems must be related. So, I think the thing to do is to approach the starter problem from "first principles" and see what seems to be causing it.
The very first thing that I would check is the battery voltage. The starter and its solenoid draw a lot of current when they operate. If the battery is low, it won't be able to deliver the necessary current and, if it is low enough, nothing will happen. With a bit more current available you'll get clicking from the solenoid, a bit more will get you an attempt to crank, and so on…
A battery that is too low to get any response out of the starter may have enough power to supply the smaller loads so that it appears as if the battery is good. A fully charged battery should be at about 12.6 V, anything less is suspicious. If the battery is low, try a jump start or charge it and try again. If you don't have a volt meter, assume that the battery is low.
Once you confirm that the car will start (or not) with a full battery you can get on to the next step. I'm going to assume that it will start. The most likely problem is that you've still got some residual damage from the melted wires at the headlight switch or that there may be damage that you missed at the rear hatch. If you have a meter the easy check is to measure the draw on the battery when the car is off. It should be only a few milliamperes. An easy way to measure is by pulling fuses on at a time and then measure by putting the meter probes where the fuse was.
If you don't have access to a meter, check your work at the headlight switch and the rear hatch carefully. Or do a test by pulling the fuse that used to blow and seeing if that cures the won't start problem – if it does then you know where the problem lies.