No, I think it has more to do with an expected range, given the vast number of torque tools, operator technique, and the distinct lack of calibration of most folks' torque wrenches.
(And I am as or more guilty than most... my elbow used to click +/- 2 lb-ft. Now, after four decades of wrenching on things, my elbow clicks just attempting to get out of bed and strap on my various trusses...)
Unless you want to send your torque wrench out for calibration (and who does that??) set it to the midrange of your manual specification and be happy! Keep in mind that most folks don't even read the manual, so you are already way ahead on this endeavor.
The minimum is the minimum, the maximum is the maximum, but in truth most automotive applications are based on female threads that are far weaker than any true fastener rating. Set to the midpoint, torque, be happy, you're all good.
Hey, I am all for regular torque wrench calibrations; please don't misinterpret my harsh old coot ways. BUT, it's not always easily accessible and/or affordable for the Regular Joe DIY guy, of which I am not.
I have spent almost as much on SnapOn as I have on alimony, and I assure you the former is a better value. When you are putting back together suspension parts, you need to have a good feel. Not much more. "GoodNtite" works here. When you are final torquing an aluminum head down on a high performance engine, you may need special lubricants, instructions, angle torque, and a lot of experience. And most of all, a really nice and calibrated top-tier torque wrench.
Bottom line is this: If you care, you'll be fine. Torque specs are quite sloppy on anything except Rocket Surgury and head bolts, and the latter comes with great instructions and often bespoke thread lubricant.
I buy some things from Harbor Freight, but I'm embarrased to admit that. If you really want to wrench stuff seriously, invest in a good Snapon/MAC/Matco torque wrench (I suggest 1/2" drive) and enjoy it (with occasional calibration) for the rest of your life.