Brakes worked fine before. Put on new brakes front and back. Put 2 new calipers in the rear. A pieced in high pressure brake hose. Getting no fluid when bleeding. The pedal keeps going to the floor. I bled the master cylinder and still got nothing. Now there was fluid coming out of the rear drivers side but then stopped. But pulled hose off and fluid drained out of caliper. I need this fixed, what do I do next?

  • Could you clarify "A pieced in high pressure brake hose." Have you checked levels in the brake fluid reservoir? Wondering if the leak stopped when fluid was all used up. It would also help to know where the fluid was coming out of.
    – dlu
    Commented Sep 5, 2016 at 16:33
  • You introduced air into the brake system, a proper bleed of the brake system should fix this issue.
    – Moab
    Commented Sep 5, 2016 at 22:07

4 Answers 4


You've got air in your lines, I am sure on that. Even if your question leaves me wondering in some places what you mean exactly.

Once I have had similar issues where I replaced brake components, but couldn't bleed by pumping the brakes.

I believe the reason you and I had in that case is when there is "so much" air in all of the lines, even pumping the pedal to the floor is just moving air. You're not actually getting brake fluid to move from the master resevoir into the lines progressively, and ultimately pushing all of the air out.

I ended up having to apply pressure on the master cylinder in an effort to get the air out of the system and brake fluid (which is not compressible, obviously) into the lines.

You'd really benefit from having a pressure bleeder if you ask me.. Even one handed, you can be sure that as you open each line you'll be making progress to get the air out of the system..

Of course, having the workshop manual and following a proper "procedure" will give the best results, as in following the correct order of the lines to be bled.

  • I like the Motive pressure bleeders. They are pumped by hand so you don't need access to a compressor, and they work extremely well for the price. Commented Sep 6, 2016 at 19:15

(I have used this answer on several questions for chevy truck brake issues)

I have a 97 suburban, so I believe things are similar, but I have rear drums. I too have replaced lines on this truck and spent hours of time and over a gallon of fluid trying to get it bled correctly. A couple things that I've learned and have helped.

Bench bleed the master. Remove the lines, install short lines, and have them go back to the reservoir on the master. Pump until no bubbles.

Bench bleed the ABS. Same as bench bleeding the master. I didn't try this, but I think it would have really helped.

When bleeding - Open the bleeder, push the pedal down, close the bleeder, release the pedal. This will help from air getting trapped.

A couple methods I've used:

Normal pump bleeding. Never quite got it right. I wasn't closing the bleeders in between pumps though.

Pressure bleeding - apply pressure to the master cylinder reservoir to push fluid through. Might had worked had the top been able to seal well, but it ended up just making a big mess.

Vacuum bleeding - apply vacuum at the bleeder. Be sure to use a ton of Teflon tape so you don't suck air from around the threads.

Reverse bleeding - Push fluid from the bleeder back through to the master.

I ended up modifying some bleeders by cutting the tip off so I could screw it all the way down to ensure no air would get past the threads. Used a ton of Teflon tape. Vacuum bleed until I purged the line, reverse bleed, install original bleeder, vacuum bleed until I don't see bubbles.

I think the reverse bleeding helps get the bubbles out near the master/abs where there is a long drop. The bubbles want to go up, and normal methods are trying to push them down. I might had had good success with bench bleeding the ABS first also.

You should also note, at least on my truck, part of the process is to have the dealer run an automated bleed on the ABS system. This takes a very specific scan tool. I tried several of my cousin's professional Snap-On scan tools, and they were not able to do the ABS bleed.


So, with a master cylinder replacement you really need to bench bleed it before installing it on the vehicle. From there I usually do an initial gravity bleed on the system (basically open up one bleeder at a time and keep topping off the reservoir until it's steadily dripping from the bleeder). THEN, I do a proper pressure bleed.

Since you already have the master cylinder installed, go ahead and pull your brake lines from the master cylinder, rent a Master Cylinder Bleeder kit from the parts store, as well as some new fluid (DOT4). Bleed the master and then reconnect your lines, gravity bleed, and then pressure bleed once you're confident you have fluid at each bleeder nipple.


If you didnt touch the pedal after you removed the calipers let it gravity feed. Loose the hard line and let fluid start to drip. Open the bleeders, if possible remove it completely. Reinstall by hand and tightened as far as you can by hand then tighten it. Ebay has a great one man bleeder kit for $8.00. Comes with a magnet to attached to rotor. Bleed brakes open bleeder put the hose on the fitting push slowly down 3 times. Close bleeder. Pump brakes up do passengers side rear the same way. Make sure the bleeders are on the top. If they are not you wont have any pedal. Hope this helped.

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