How much work is involved to change out the master cylinder and power brake booster on a 1972 Mustang?

  • 1
    Welcome to the site. Unfortunately, it's against site policy to ask about pricing.
    – Zaid
    Jul 30, 2016 at 17:45
  • 1
    @Zaid - but asking book labor hours is not. If the OP can modify the question accordingly, this would still be a valid question. Jul 30, 2016 at 17:55
  • @Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 agreed
    – Zaid
    Jul 30, 2016 at 17:55
  • If you have to ask it is too much.
    – Moab
    Jul 31, 2016 at 21:36
  • @Moab Whether this is an on-topic post or not, this comment is in no way helpful. It is unclear what the OP is really asking. I suspect the question should be "How diffilcut is chaging out the MC/booster? [What tools/skills are necessary, so that I can decide whether to attempt this myself?] OR, the question is what would this cost roughly in terms of labor to be performed by a professional, which is what I answered. Either way I would ask you to delete your comment as it does nothing to answer any question.
    – SteveRacer
    Aug 1, 2016 at 2:46

2 Answers 2


1972 Flat Rate data is a bit difficult to come by, even from a fossil like myself that never throws anything away.

For a 1982 Mustang 5.0 V8, book is around 2 hours labor. The engine compartment is less crowded on a 1972, and might be a tad easier.

  • 1
    2 hours is about right for a 72, that is for a professional.
    – Moab
    Jul 31, 2016 at 21:39

I am not familiar with the setup of your mustang, but I am going to assume it is similar to other booster/master setups I've seen. Here are the approximate steps you would follow.

Disconnect battery.
Disconnect pedal from master/booster.
Disconnect vacuum line from booster.
Disconnect brake lines from master.
Disconnect booster from firewall.

Install is the reverse of removal.

Do your best to not spill the fluid, its corrosive and causes rust. You may want to remove as much fluid as possible before removing the old master.

Before installing the new master, bench bleed it. Run a line from the output of the master back into the reservoir and pump it until you don't see bubbles anymore. Keep fluid in it and make sure it doesn't run dry or you will have to bench bleed it again. You will need to bleed the system when you are done. This may take a while as you need to bleed for the entire length of the system.

I am not sure if it would be better to remove/install the booster and master as one or separate, or if it really matters.

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