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I have a 2005 Honda Accord. Recently, whenever I turn off the engine the high beams stay on! I tried to cut the power from the battery and turn it on again but the high beams are still on.

Can you help me, please?

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Find your high beam relay in your under hood fuse box. Put your finger on it and have a friend flip the high beams on and off. It should click. If not, replace. Else, see other answer for the switch.

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Your light switch may be defective. Buy a $15 multimeter (WalMart has them), and perform a continuity test on the switch. This involves setting the multimeter either to a resistance setting (100-1000 ohms should work, most multmeters have this setting) or to a continuity setting (not all mutlimeters have this setting).

If you are using a resistance setting, continuity between 2 pins will display a reading on your multimeter (an actual number other than 0), whereas lack of continuity between 2 pins will either read 0, or display something saying the reading is out of range (each multi-meter is a little bit different for this). If your multi-meter has a continuity setting, they usually beep when you have continuity.

To get comfortable telling the difference between continuity and no-continuity readings, set your multi-meter to a your chosen setting, make sure the electrodes aren't touching and look at the screen: that's no continuity. Then touch the electrodes together and look at the screen: that's continuity.

Once you've figured out the setting, perform the continuity test by sticking each electrode in the combination of connectors listed on the link with the switch in the stated positions. In case the link above goes dead, a 2005 Accord needs continuity between:

  • pins 1 and 12 with the switch off
  • pins 7 and 12 with the switch to running/parking lights (1st position)
  • pins 2, 7 and 12 with the switch to headlights, with high beams off (no blue light on your dash). (test the pins 2 at a time: 2 & 7, 2 & 12, then 7 & 12)
  • pins 8 and 12 with the switch to headlights, with high beams on (blue light on your dash).

The link above tells you how to remove the light switch and how the pins are numbered.

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    Might be relay melted together. – Arturs Bolsunovskis Jul 10 '16 at 11:57
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    Instead of a continuity test on the switch I'd suggest backprobing the switch connector on those pins. if you have voltage where you shouldn't unplug the connector and check for power (or ground) on the output pins harness side. This way you cover two tests without having to remove the switch or contort your body to test. – Ben Jul 10 '16 at 12:40
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I just fixed this exact problem in my 2003 Accord EX V6. All of the symptoms you mentioned apply. The circuit-board module (Omron G8C-402H Keyless Control 38830SDA-A210-M1) inside the ostensibly sealed portion of the main under-hood fuse box must be replaced.

There's an excellent video on YouTube showing how to remove the main fuse box from under the hood and gain entry to the sealed portion of that fuse box (search for how to replace the ELD (Electronic Load Detector) on the 2003 Accord).

The exact same method is used to replace the $30 ELD inside the sealed portion of the fuse box, for those experiencing the headlight intermittent dimming/brightening phenomenon.

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