I agree wholeheartedly with both Ben and Paulster. However, I use a high-power air impact for to tighten, on it's lowest setting, and also have a selection of color "torque stix" with a minimum of three passes (snug, torque, final) while in the air. While not perfect, I think this is a reasonable compromise between my efficiency needs and returning a safe proper job to the customer. The torque stix are not perfect, but neither is a non-calibrated click or beam wrench (which can be abused just as much as any other torquing method). My only real problem with dropping the car on the ground to torque, is I work on a lot of lug-centric old stuff... I'd rather let the lug cone do its centering work in the air.
To loosen, run what you got. Bigger is better in this case. Especially when dealing with VW/Volvo/MB-Sprinter type fasteners that are special cap bolts rather than nuts. These can get horribly corrosion welded to a different-metal wheel. Getting the hub/rotor/wheel holes aligned at the same time is always an adventure. I made some alignment studs on a lathe to simplify this for the cars that use it. And I clean and sparingly use anti-seize, even though I know that's a never-ending debate outside of this question.
So, I would say your focus should be about putting the wheels back on properly, with less regard on how one takes them off.