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I have a vexing problem and so far two mechanics and the dealer haven't been able to solve it.

The car will crank and crank and crank but will not start. On the initial crank the fuel pump will come on, the injectors will fire once and then nothing. No check engine light or other indictors of a problem. It's as if the PCM is seeing (or not seeing) something it doesn't like and shutting down the process.

Here's what I (and various mechanics) have done. Tested and replaced the CKP and CMP sensors and tested continuity from the various plugs to the ECU pins. Hooking up a scanner yields the not-very-helpful P0340 code which another dealer says can occur if you continue to crank while it doesn't start. Timing was inspected and adjusted.

What might have led to this was removal of the valve cover to replace a leaking gasket. My instinct says this probably caused a short or open wire but I haven't found that to be the case.

Any ideas on the next steps to take here?

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    Maybe the alarm system? It will prevent the car from starting in some cases, any instrument cluster security lights blinking with key on?
    – Moab
    May 11, 2016 at 18:39
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    what's fuel pressure at? is the inertia switch tripped? did you confirm spark? is the p0340 code still setting? you say you tested continuity on the ckp and cmp sensors but did you look at the waveform? how about the radio noise isolator thing thats mounted on the valve cover? if that shorts to ground it will blow the ignition fuses.
    – Ben
    May 11, 2016 at 19:39
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    Also that continuous cranking causing a p0340 sounds like BS. If the codes is setting it's setting for a reason.
    – Ben
    May 11, 2016 at 22:57
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    no key flash indicator - the dealer says the car should run 30 seconds before the immobilizer kicks in if the key wasn't recognized. have tried both keys with no difference.
    – corn
    May 12, 2016 at 18:29
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    I should have mentioned the MIL isn't illuminated and the P0340 code only shows up when connected to the MODIS. even though the old CPS and CKS both tested fine, both were replaced by the first mechanic (who isn't charging me for them, thankfully). The valve cover repair was the only thing that happened between the car running fine and the car not starting which is why it's first on my list of suspected causes.
    – corn
    May 12, 2016 at 18:39

1 Answer 1

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It turned out it was an intermittently open wire to the cam position sensor. Unfortunately between then and now one of the mechanics bent the valves by installing the intake cam upside down so I still don't have a working car.

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