I own a Royal Enfiel Classic 350. I recently met with an accident and had to replace the tank, handle, light set, metal mount for light and the handle for the fork.

My insurance did not cover for the fork replacement and the disc brake. The company bent and corrected it and gave back.

Should I replace the disc and the fork?

The bike is just 1 yr old and I intend to use it for at least 8-9 yrs more.

  • 1
    What was wrong with the disk brakes? Why would they need to be replaced?
    – JPhi1618
    Mar 31 '16 at 14:36
  • 1
    Do you have a picture of the front end when it bent up before the repair AND a picture of the fork bend that was straightened after the repair? Mar 31 '16 at 15:28
  • 2
    Is this bike rideable now after the repair or are you experiencing problems with bike? What is your exact concern regarding the fork and the disc brake? Mar 31 '16 at 15:48
  • depending on what the fork before and after pics look like, I'd be looking for a new insurance company.
    – Leliel
    Apr 1 '16 at 5:12
  • Get each one into a lathe and use a dial indicator. Through clockwork reduction gears this will translate to 0.001in/0.01mm 'out-of-round' or 'out-of-axis'. It is very likely the disk has been adequately repaired if they took a skim off it and left enough metal to meet manufacturer's minimum specs; I find it unlikely that the fork(s) was rebent adequately and without metal fatigue but it is not impossible.
    – user16128
    Apr 1 '16 at 22:27

Back in the '80's, I did motorcycle collision repair professionally in California. I straightened quite a few bent forks, using a hydraulic press. We would straighten the triple clamps along with the fork tubes.

First, if the bend was severe, there is likely a crease in the fork tube along the lower edge of the lower triple clamp. We would turn the fork tube 90' (so the crease faced to the left or right) and slide the tube up to put the crease inside the clamp.

Next, if the tubes were still unacceptably bent, the front suspension would not move over it's entire travel without binding or sticking. So if it doesn't bind or stick, it's probably good.

I didn't straightened the brake discs, that was done by another tech. Disc runout should be measured with a dial indicator and should be within factory specs. If not within specs, or if the surface of the disk is damaged, it should be replaced.

In the time I did this work, we never had a fork tube come back. However, I think in the end whether or not you replace it depends on your budget. This was an acceptable repair in the US in the Eighties, but probably would not be now. It is apparently an acceptable repair where ever you are. But if a straight pair of used fork tubes become available at a price that will not unduly burden you, I see no reason NOT to replace them.

  • 1
    I have the same 80's experience. Your right about it being acceptable now too although i would feel safe and inclined to do my own under similar circumstances. Welcome to the site, nice answer! +1 Apr 1 '16 at 21:08
  • 1
    Thanks. I would straighten my own today and wouldn't worry for a moment, but I wouldn't do it for a customer, for US liability reasons. Such is life. Apr 1 '16 at 21:15
  • Nice to have another MC guy in here answering. Hope you stick around and like this SE site. Much better than forums IMO. Apr 1 '16 at 21:22
  • AND....if your interested in answering another one. This one is pretty good. I've had the same issue on Suzuki TL and SV as well as an RC51. Clearly all twins with vertical split cases. Pretty interesting and don't know why this happens. Maybe you do. mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27692/… Apr 1 '16 at 21:24

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