Hello everyone i have an oldsmobile intrigue 1998 and i was just driving home and the car shutdown while driving so i pulled it over put on the hazards tried to restart it and it just cranked and wouldnt turn over, a minute later same thing, so i waited about 15 minutes then it started up and i drove the rest of the way home fine, the same thing happened about 2 months ago and i got the fuel filter replace so id like to ask, why could it be stalling while driving like that? Id like to have some idea so i can maintenance the car to be safe while driving any further clarification i will try to give you upon request, thank you for reading and thank you for your time

  • 1
    I'm wondering if it's an intermittent issue with the fuel pump. Mar 25, 2016 at 3:51
  • My pop said its probably some intermittent problem, does that mean the problem will eventually come to light, like what the problem is obviously
    – JRowan
    Mar 25, 2016 at 3:53
  • How long did you drive before it shut down?
    – race fever
    Mar 25, 2016 at 4:34
  • About 25 minutes
    – JRowan
    Mar 25, 2016 at 4:35

1 Answer 1


Fuel, Air, Spark... those three things in the right amount are what makes the engine go. The good news is your car's fuel system is controlled by a computer which gives feedback on possible issues in the fuel system. You are going to want to read the stored codes. Not sure where you are located, but in my location Autozone offers a free service to read the codes for you. You can also purchase a code reader for $25 or so. I'm not positive when your car went from OBD1 --> OBDII (OnBoard Diagnostics) but if you are still at OBD1 adapters are available.

Read the codes, then act accordingly.

Do note, not every failure mode will set a code. The computer system doesn't really know how to read successful spark. There are other faults that don't set codes.

Possible Issues:

  • Faulty Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system. Something stuck open or closed will affect air / fuel ratio.
  • Carbon Cannister purge system, again this could affect air/ fuel ratio.
  • Spark plug wires shorting out. (Quick test... run car at night in DARK location. Open hood, check the spark plug wire routing carefully, look for visible sparking when the engine is running..Keep hands AWAY from fan belts, alternator fan. Be safe.)
  • Ignition Coil not functioning correctly.
  • Engine control computer not sending out correct signals, particularly spark. (Been there, done that and it was quite ugly. The CPU chip worked okay, so there were messages, etc, but the IGBT chip inside the module that controlled spark wasn't working.)
  • Dirty fuel filter, not allowing gas to flow easily.
  • Bad electrical sending unit, this affects the decisions that the computer makes about air / fuel ratio. Generally these do set codes... (EGR pressure / numerous temperature sensors / throttle position sensor / etc...)
  • Bad / dirty fuel injector.
  • For hot engine stall, its possible that the fuel is "boiling" from liquid state to vapor and not flowing correctly. This would account for why car starts after 30 minutes but not right away.
  • Bad / worn fuel pump not getting pressure right.
  • Old vacuum hose cracked / leaking.
  • Electrical short causing faulty reading from a sensor somewhere.

Step #1: read the codes, report back here.

Step #2: If you are a do it yourself person, then step #2 is to purchase a repair manual. This will help huge in troubleshooting.

  • Last time it happened the mechanic said there were no codes, i have to get it inspected this month so i was going to take it to him anyway so ill get the codes checked, also there was no check engine light, doesnt that have to be on for there to be codes?
    – JRowan
    Mar 25, 2016 at 4:01
  • Generally if codes are set then the check engine light does come on. Remember I did say there are many failure modes that don't set a code. Could be a low fuel pressure issue (not sure if your model car has a fuel pressure sensor in the system or not) or it could be a spark related issue. Faulty ignition coils don't send out code. Ditto for spark plug wiring troubles. (Quick test there... run car at night in DARK location. Open hood, check the spark plug wire routing carefully, look for visible sparking when the engine is running..Keep hands AWAY from fan belts, alternator fan. Be safe)
    – zipzit
    Mar 25, 2016 at 4:06
  • @JRowan - One thing to remember when taking a car to a mechanic is if the condition doesn't exist or happen while they have it, there is little which they can do to fix it. You have to have a fault in order to fix a fault. Intermittent issues are the hardest to deal with because the car will always make you out to be a liar (will work perfectly when you get it to your mechanic ... at least it seems that way). You wouldn't believe how many vehicles people have wanted me to look at just for the issue not to be there when I do. I always tell them the cars are afraid of me :o) Mar 25, 2016 at 17:41
  • I have another piece of information that might be the problem, when i got the car there is a big bolt in the negative battery terminal, say that connection is bad, could that have caused the stall, when i say big bolt i mean just some bolt the guy threw on there before he sold me the car not the standard terminal bolt, if that is the reason would the stall from that reset the clock, i havent checked
    – JRowan
    Mar 30, 2016 at 3:41
  • Not sure what you are even talking about. Do you have access to a mobile phone with a camera? A photo of the battery would be helpful. Is this car still displaying the erratic behavior? upload the image to your original posting.
    – zipzit
    Mar 30, 2016 at 22:20

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