I have an old Daewoo car (from 1995) with a non working stock radio unit (a Philips DC508D).

I got a "slightly less old" Pioneer DEH-2000R (from 1998) as a replacement. None of them has any kind of ISO connector but I managed to find the wiring (the Pioneer seems like it had one, but the previous owner has cut the cables out).

I would like some advice about three particular points:

  • On the "proprietary connector" I salvaged from the old Philips radio unit, the "-" of all 4 speakers are connected to the ground. Should I keep them this way or should I separate them before connecting the Pioneer?

  • On the Philips wiring, there was a 3A fuse in the ACC wire. The Pioneer has a 7A on the ACC wire and a 15A one on the "backup" wire (not sure about the name; that's the yellow wire which always provides 12V). I'm pretty sure keeping it in place won't cause any issue, but shouldn't I change it for something smaller? (like the 3A from the Philips unit). 15A seems kind of a lot to me, and regarding the previous cabling work, I suspect the previous owner just put in the first fuse he found that fitted inside... And what about the 7A one? should I also find something more reasonable?

  • There is a small box between the ground and ACC wires on the connector of the Philips (between the connector and the unit). It contains a small transformer and a capacitor (see picture below). Should I put it back between the Pioneer and the connector? I think I shouldn't but I have no experience with car electronics so any advice is welcome.

Connector of the Philips radio unit with the transformer/capacitor unknown board

PS: if it helps, the Pioneer's service manual is easily available online (http://www.manualslib.com/manual/864371/Pioneer-Deh-2000r.html)

1 Answer 1


1) It would be best to separate all the negative speaker wires, the circuit diagram doesn't indicate that they are all common inside, so you could possibly cause damage if you connect them together.

2) There should be a 10A fuse on the rear of the stereo. This is also protecting the backup wire, so leaving the 15A in place will be fine. 7A does appear to be too high a value for the fuse, The 3A would be better, or even 1A.

3) There is nothing in the Philips manual to suggest you need the coil and capacitor, so I would leave it off.

  • Thanks for the great and complete answer! I followed your directions and everything works fine. Also I did find the 10A fuse on the back of the unit. The ACC signal is not working very reliably but I guess that's what you get with an old car (if I fiddle the key in the ignition, the audio systems starts and stop, but once the engine is running it stays on).
    – LeFauve
    Mar 15, 2016 at 4:11
  • Happy that you got it working. It is a generally a simple job to replace or clean the electrical switch part of an ignition switch. There are a few answers on here that talk about doing so.
    – HandyHowie
    Mar 15, 2016 at 8:15
  • Thanks again. I'll let it like this for now but if it goes worst I'll try starting a new question about the electric switch.
    – LeFauve
    Mar 20, 2016 at 1:12

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