!importantclosed-cooling-systemcherokee-89laredo6-cylender4-liternon-startstalling I'm wondering if the vacuum went bad, or if it could be anything else? !PULL THE METAL LEVER UNDER THE VACUUM WHILE THE CAR IS ENGAGED [STARTING] TO TEST. I think the vacuum doesn't require a fuse.
I clearly remember the car overheating, but the owner does not seem to; so, I'm not even sure if it's a heating problem, now. I just know we're having intermittent non-start and frequent stalling issues: it rarely starts (see update).
I'm not sure what to look at. I replaced the thermostat and gasket, already. There's a pin-size leak in the radiator-reserve-tank itself/'the coolant reserve bottle itself'.
A heating problem is causing the car to stall and not start. Some of the head gaskets must have been broken, by now, because the owner will not stop "risking it" and "taking a quick trip"; so, ! I'm afraid the engine will crack if he continues. Any emergency help would be greatly appreciated.
Update 0
- The spark plugs are burned at the tip;
- The rotor is burnt up (looks like a serrated knife edge when pulled).
- I found the reserve-coolant vacuum, I think (if so, it's called an
idle air control
). It has a lever under it, where the power cables come on: pulling the lever does nothing.
The car started after pulling a spark plug (rough-idle-start). I did cranked and released the key several times to get it to start, rather than holding the key down; so, I wonder if it's not getting too much power somehow?
Found out the timing order is
1-5-3-6-2-4
on 99% of 6-cylnders. There's an extruded cylinder the housing between 1 and 5
.
The spark plug gap is 0.035 (thirty-five thousandths [of an inch]).
Thank you for reading.
Update 1
Issue: it shuts down when it starts to warm up. No fluid under the thermal sensor.
Suspected culprits: a !"electronic coil" (the wire on the distributor goes to it; on the passenger side, mounted on the wall of the engine enclosure). How should the resistance read on the volt meter?
!It's probably the control module