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1990 Chevrolet 1500

Me and my neighbor just put a new clutch and a pressure plate in and about 2 weeks ago I put a bottom slave cylinder on it.

I'm having trouble with my clutch engaging as well as going into gear while running we just replaced clutch and pressure plate. It won't go all the way down to the floor to put in gear.

When it's finally down to shift gears it won't to go in gear at all. Only when the truck is running. Now when the engine is off it goes into gear just fine but clutch peddle still is hard to press down.

What could be the issue?

  • What is the make/model/year of the truck? Does it make any sounds? Have you or someone else worked on the clutch in this vehicle recently? – DucatiKiller Feb 22 '16 at 4:06
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    Yes sir me and my neighbor just put a new clutch in n pressure plate as well and about 2 weeks ago I put a bottom slave cylinder on it'd a 1990 chevy 1500 – Corey Ward Feb 22 '16 at 4:20
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    And the muffler isn't tight enough it's making that loud noise from muffler – Corey Ward Feb 22 '16 at 4:23
  • I added the info to the question for ya. Good luck. Someone will come along and start suggesting things. Welcome to Stack Exchange. If you want you can see how this site works by clicking here. mechanics.stackexchange.com/tour – DucatiKiller Feb 22 '16 at 4:23
  • I'll leave the muffler piece in your comments but since it's different subject you can go here and ask a new question about that issue. :-) mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/ask – DucatiKiller Feb 22 '16 at 4:24
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It sounds to me like you need to bleed the clutch hydraulics. If they are too spongy from having air int he system, it won't allow the clutch to become fully released, which allows the friction disk to drag on the flywheel and pressure plate. This means the front half of the transmission is stills pinning and the rear half is not.

There are two ways to bleed the hydraulics. I'd suggest you do both:

  1. Take the unit off as a whole (master/slave/hose) and suspend it from the master. This will allow any air in the line to travel to the top. You'll want to leave it suspended like this for a couple of hours.
  2. Some hydraulic setups will allow you to pump the heck out of them to bleed the air out of the lines. You may also have a bleeder in the slave.

Either way, work on it and see if there is air in the system. If your master ever went dry while putting the slave on, you should probably have bench bled it. Doing the second item above should work the air out of the system while it's on the vehicle. You also want to ensure your master stays up to the top with fluid. Most take just DOT3/4 brake fluid. I'd doubt, considering the year/make of your vehicle it's tied in with the brake reservoir, but that could be a consideration.

1

If you're lucky, you can adjust clutch pedal from under the dashboard enough to allow the clutch to disengage. In the few clutch problems I've worked on (granted none have been on American cars), the clutch pedal is attached to the master cylinder by a fork, which is threaded on to the end of the master cylinder piston, allowing you to (after loosening the lock nut) spin the piston with your fingers.

If you are able to turn the piston clockwise (which would be the same as turning the fork counterclockwise) it would effectively increase your pedal travel, which may give you enough clutch disengagement to get around.

If adjusting the pedal does not work, bleeding as paulster2 recommended would be the best bet. It should also be noted that you may need to readjust the pedal to OEM specifications to bleed the system, as it may prevent the master cylinder piston from traveling a full stroke.

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