Old starter clicked, wont turn over engine. New starter wont even click - no noise at all

Question

My old starter would click, but not turn the engine over. I got a brand new starter and installed it. The only two wires connected to the starter are completely different and can only be fit in the right spot, so the starter has been installed and wired correctly.

Go to start: nothing, no click, no noise at all. Battery is good, terminals are good. The solenoid housed inside the starter is good, brand new. Relay: I haven't learned about that yet, but it seems to me the starter is not getting any power.

Regarding the two connections onto the starter:

• What are they?
• Where do they come from?
• What is the path from the battery to the starter?

One of the starter connections (the clip or plug not the one with the nut) is connected to something connected to my engine. Is that a ground connection?

My starter isn't getting power what causes that not battery, terminals, the devices that the average person doesn't know about, or can anybody tell me where to find any information regarding my problem or where to download the repair manual for a 84 Toyota pickup.

Hey thanks this website is really great with great people.

Answer 1

I recommend you carry out the following steps:

1. Have the starter relay tested.

   From the description provided (old starter was clicking) this may actually be fine but it is so easy to verify that it works it would be silly to not rule this out as the source of the problem.

   After locating the starter relay, have someone turn the key in the ignition to start the car. You should hear the starter relay click. If it doesn't, that would indicate the problem is either with the relay or the ignition switch wiring.

2. Confirm that you have power to the starter

   Hook up a multimeter in voltage mode to verify that the solenoid is being powered when the key is turned.

   Another way to verify this is to jump the starter solenoid. If jumping the starter solenoid doesn't crank the starter then there is an issue with power supply.

Answer 2

On the starter there will be two connections. The smaller gauge wire (s terminal - blk/wht) will run from the starter to the neutral safety switch ( A/T only - right side of transmission) and then to the ignition switch. The larger gauge wire runs directly to the battery.

On a M/T the wire runs straight to the ignition switch.

The larger gauge wire will always have battery voltage.

The smaller gauge wire will have ignition voltage when the key is turned to the start position.

Using a multimeter check power on the s terminal when the key is in the start position. If you don't have power you will need to gain access to the neutral safety switch (A/T only) and test input and output power. If you have power in, but not out. Confirm the car is in park/neutral before replacing the switch. The power input pin in the ignition switch draws power directly from the battery with no fuse or fusible link seemingly.