Oil changes are a boring job!
As Hasen says, a larger size oil catch pan is the only real solution. Before you start, try and estimate the direction of flow. If the drain plug is on the side of the sump (oil pan), the oil will begin to flow horizontally, curving down with gravity, and hit the ground around 9-12" out from the hole - assuming you're worknig with the car on stands around 18" - 2' above the ground. As the pressure (and thus flow rate) drops, the point of impact will move back towards a point vertically below the hole. Therefore, you need to make sure your catch pan covers all of this area (or move it as the flow lessens if you have a small one).
Drain the oil with the engine warm, but not hot, as this helps it to flow better, and takes more sediment/gunk with it. But be careful, otherwise you'll get hot oil down your arm as you withdraw the drain plug...
I usually then leave it for half an hour or so to drain fully before removing the drain pan and replacing the plug.
Once it has fully drained, put the catch pan under the filter and remove it carefully, then pour the oil into the catch pan. I then leave the filter face-down in the drain pan for a while.
The only way to sort the funnel is to pour slower and more carefully.
Top Tip: Check the new filter is on properly before pouring a gallon of oil in the top - a mistake you only make once!
Disposal: In the UK the local councils have facilities for disposal of engine oil at their waste disposal sites, so I decant the old oil into the can the new oil came in, then put the old filter (and rags) face-up in the box the new one came in, double-wrap it in plastic bags, then take the lot to the council site.