I have a 2000 mustangs v6 3.8l The smog pump is not working (I think its an electrical problem) but that's outside of the point. I live in Oklahoma and we have no emission stuff (Amen!!!) so can I just delete the codes it popping up? unless it will make the engine run worse, why should I fix it unless the electrical problems will cause more damage (the service light for the smog pump stuff has been on for over 2-3 years) so I don't think it will. based on FORscan, it gave me two pcm codes p1000, P0411 and obdII P411.

2 Answers 2


You may want to think about getting it fixed vs. ignoring it. In this case, the problem is more than likely in the solenoid which directs air from the pump to the cat. Depending on the exact malfunction, you could be seeing decreased fuel mileage and also damaging your catalytic convertor. There are some reasonable tests which were written up on OBD-Codes.com which might help you do your own diagnosis of the issue:

If you have access to a scan tool, with KOEO (Key on engine off) command the AIR pump on. It should activate. If it doesn't, remove and inspect the AIR pump relay for discoloration/melting due to heat. Repair as necessary.

With the ignition on (engine off) check for battery voltage at the switched battery feed to the relay and the relay control circuit. If either of these isn't present, inspect circuit for blown fuse or open/short in the wiring. Repair cause of short and retest. If they are both present, jumper the battery feed to AIR pump feed circuit using a fused jumper. The pump should activate. If not, check for power and ground present at the AIR pump when jumpered. If there is no voltage/ground present at pump repair open in wiring harness. If voltage and ground is present, but pump still does not run, suspect a bad AIR pump. If after jumpering the AIR pump feed circuit the pump activates then the problem is likely the AIR pump relay. Replace and retest.

If the scan tool activates the AIR pump, with KOER (Key on engine running) activate the AIR pump solenoid valve on and see if there is vacuum to the cutoff valve. It should have vacuum present to open the valve. If there is no vacuum present, check the AIR pump's vacuum solenoid valve for vacuum supply from the manifold. If there is vacuum present then the vacuum solenoid is likely bad. Replace it. If there is no vacuum present at the supply to the vacuum solenoid, check for a plugged or damaged vacuum line or plugged vacuum port. But if there is vacuum present at the cut-off valve, shut the engine off and using a vacuum pump, apply vacuum to the cut-off valve and see if it holds a vacuum and that air flows through it when vacuum is applied. If it doesn't hold vacuum or the valve doesn't flow when vacuum is applied, replace the cut-off valve. If the cut-off valve works properly, inspect the check valve for obstruction or to see if it's missing. Replace as necessary.

Check the steel line to the exhaust catalyst as well as the exhaust ports for damage or holes that could give a false reading.

P1000 is a generic Ford code which simply states all of the on board tests have not completed. This is basically a throw away code, so until you get the P0411 fixed, the P1000 code will continue to pop.

In either case, you are going to continue to have the check engine light illuminated whether you fix the smug pump issue or just pull the wiring.


I'd be tempted to leave it disconnected but then I drive a Volkswagen TDI so emissions is somewhat of a sore subject.

Leaving it disconnected shouldn't do any damage to your car.

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