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(Sorry for my lack of mechanical English experience)

I just bought a 95 Mustang. When I made my first test drive all was well, except a problem with my disc brake (they aren't even) but this doesn't seem to be the problem...

A few days later I picked the car up (it had only been moved from the aerial work platform down). Then both the ABS as the parking l break lights kept burning. Since I'm in Europe (Netherlands) the USA Fords aren't that common and I couldn't find anybody with an OBD1 device.

I visited a couple of garages, all say different things ... Also the manual appears to be clear: the two lights are, usually, unrelated.

Symptoms: shocking brakes, harder when going faster (higher frequency), both felt on the steering wheel as the brake peddle ... when really slow, it feels like the feedback on the brake peddle corresponds to the frequency of turning tires. When I break hard, the cars simply stops ... brakes appear to work too good to test the abs. (We had strange good whether)

When I pull the hand brake, the lights glow a bit more ... seems like a clue.

Suggested diagnoses: broken ABS pump - argument was: is usually the ABS pump (not a convincing argument). Sensor near the disc brakes, worn. Braking fluid pump, because when pumping the brakes, the warning lights appear to be burning more...

What can the problem be? (Unrelated but annoyingly, it is difficult to get the right equipment sent to Europe, why?)

Update:
I got even more confused on the OBD system. According to resources the Mustangs up to '95 use OBD1, whereas starting from '96 they use OBD2. But the manual is talking about OBD II Drive Cycle (mandatory in Illinois). But what is the relation between the OBD system, and the OBD II Drive Cycle, if any? (I sure hope I have the OBD I, because the order is on a boat to Europe :p)

Update 2:
Got the OBD1 scanner, apparently only the '95 Mustang Cobra needs the OBD1, the V6 needs the OBD2 scanner... (great :s)

Update 3:
I was sort of correct with Update 2. The '95 Mustang V6 has an OBDII system for motor diagnostics. But a OBDI system for ABS. (Loving it :p)
Problem code : 63
Useful link for ABS codes Mustang 94-98: http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Ford-Mustang-1994-1998-Repair-Guide/ANTI-LOCK-BRAKE-SYSTEM/Testing-and-Diagnosis/_/P-0900c152802511bc#hd1-1-1
For errors 12,19,61,63, and 69 -> use pinpoint test E
Quote Pinpoint E test from http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/abs-code-61-pump-motor-relay.805709/

PINPOINT TEST E: HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR AND RELAY

E1 CHECK 60A ABS FUSE
l Check the 60A ABS fuse located in the LH engine compartment power distribution panel.
l Is the fuse OK?
Yes
GO to «E4».
No
GO to «E2».
E2 CHECK HYDRAULIC MOTOR SYSTEM
l Ignition switch OFF.
l Replace the 60A ABS fuse.
l Inspect the fuse.
l Does the fuse fail again?
Yes
GO to «E3».
No
GO to «E4».
E3 CHECK FOR SHORT TO GROUND IN HYDRAULIC MOTOR POWER CIRCUIT
l Ignition switch OFF.
l Remove the 60A ABS fuse.
l Remove cover from hydraulic control unit.
l Disconnect the 16-pin connector located at the hydraulic control unit.
Note: Circuit 601 changes color from LB/PK to R as it passes through the harness connector.
l Measure the resistance of Circuit 601 (R) between the 60A ABS fuse terminal and ground.
l Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes
GO to «E4».
No
SERVICE Circuit 601 (R) between the engine compartment fuse panel and the hydraulic control unit.
E4 CHECK POWER SUPPLY TO HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT
l Ignition switch OFF.
l Disconnect the hydraulic control unit connector.
Note: Circuit 601 changes color from LB/PK to R as it passes through the harness connector.
l Ignition switch ON.
l Measure the voltage on Circuit 601 (R) at the hydraulic actuator assembly connector.
l Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
Yes
GO to «E5».
No
SERVICE Circuit 601 (R) between the engine compartment fuse panel and the hydraulic control unit.

E5 CHECK HYDRAULIC ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY GROUND
l Ignition switch OFF.
l Measure the resistance of the BK wire between the screw terminal on the right side of the hydraulic control assembly and ground.
l Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
REPLACE ABS unit.
No
SERVICE the BK wire.

Update 4

The symptom of shocking was resolved, as expected, by (no clue of the English term) making the disks flat again¿, and cleaning the brakes. Now 'only' the 63 message remain...

  • First off, check the fluid in the reservoir and see if it is up to the full line. If that is good, there may be a short somewhere in the brake lights, causing a ground (earth) fault. This may sound weird, but the lights getting brighter when you step on the brakes, etc., is cluing me to that. I'll get back to you with some other thoughts. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Jul 20 '15 at 20:42
  • Also, does the ABS light come on right away as bright when you first turn the car to the on position (before starting)? I'm wondering if it goes bright like when you step on the brakes, then dims back down to its "normal" brightness? Check to ensure all of your brake lights are functioning ... and I mean ALL of them. If there are three bulbs in the tail lights, check to make sure all three are good. Some systems will show ABS/brake lights when a single bulb is out. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Jul 20 '15 at 20:51
  • @Paulster2 thanks for your replies. I've got enough fluid in my brake system. I've rigorously tested the light, all of them, and they are all working. But I'm afraid here was something lost in translation, since the warning lights (ABS, parking brake lights) don't shine brighter when I hit the breaks, but when I pull the parking brake lever - both of the lights (but not the warning lights that are more to the side, battery and check engine (only bright when the engine is off)). – Danielson Jul 21 '15 at 6:22
  • The ABS and warning parking light go right away, and don't go off. Brake fluid level is high enough. – Danielson Jul 21 '15 at 6:28
  • It sounds like you have the easy stuff covered already. I'm not sure you are going to see ABS codes on OBDI systems, though I'm not discouraging you from trying. In some vehicles, 95 was a crossover year between OBDI and OBDII systems, which causes a lot of confusion. I don't know that your Mustang was one of them. They will have an OBDI connector, but will show OBDII codes and need to be read by an OBDII scanner. This may be a good thing ultimately, but I think you'll need the codes read in order to figure out, or at least get a starting point as to what's going on. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Jul 21 '15 at 11:28

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