my car drives fine but when i come to a stop light or any stop it acts like it will stall but never does. did some easy things like oil change. no check engine light is on but it seems to keep happening more and more. the rpms move when it feels like stalling.i am not sure what to do next or my next step to getting this resolved. i asked a few friends and non of them gave me the same answer so what do i do ?

  • What have you done thus far to fix it? Commented Feb 17, 2015 at 19:51
  • What make and model and year is it
    – Fern
    Commented Feb 18, 2015 at 3:00
  • 3
    what exactly happens? Does the engine stutter/just an idling issue? Is it fixed by revving the engine a little? Does it happen with the clutch depressed in gear? or does it also happen in neutral? Is it a manual at all?
    – chilljeet
    Commented Feb 18, 2015 at 11:48
  • My car idles at a complete stop in first gear. The rpms go so low like it's going to stall. And then it shakes a little. It doesn't always happen, but enough to be concerned. It doesn't rev, it just idles like it's going to stall but doesn't. I know this isn't an answer to posters problem...But almost exactly like hers. I first thought my clutch could be going. But hearing it may be a vacuum hose is refreshing. Any other reason it does this? Commented Mar 29, 2018 at 22:16

3 Answers 3


Your idle air control valve might be dirty. Try cleaning that.

  • 4
    Why don't you explain what an IAC does and how to clean it ... it would make this a much better answer. Commented Feb 18, 2015 at 19:39
  • I agree with @Paulster2 - some instructions on how to do this would be great or a link to a tutorial/video on how this can be done.
    – Dan
    Commented Aug 17, 2015 at 7:49

The first thing that I would check for is a vacuum leak. Vacuum hoses rot over time making this is a common cause of engine speed problems at idle. Carefully examine all of the boots and hoses connected to your intake manifold.

~~~ to locate an air leak in or around engine, listen for hissing sound when throttle is applied a little. Air sucking into a cut or broken orifice will cause the fuel/air mixture to get too lean...or not enough gas mixed with available air coming in. Using an accelerant like starting fluid (ether) to find the leaks is a handy and fast route to use. With engine idling, spray the ether around air tube junctions, hose ends, intake manifold joints, throttle body/carburetor flange gaskets and conne tions...if the engine suddenly revs up or increases idle speed/RPM, you have found the leak and can then begin to resolve/repair it. Use caution if using the ether method as unintentional ignition of the spray can burn you and damage parts under hood if a fire breaks out and burns for any amount of time. Sometimes if ether is not available, you can use brake cleaner spray, water in a squirt bottle, or a wide variety of sprays that won't act as an accelerant to the engine... Instead these materials when sucked into the engine via the problem air leak, will actually cause a decrease in engine idle speed/RPM, or stall the engine altogether. The same value in finding problem is realized with this approach as well. If you find a place where you hear engine slow down or sputter or stall, you have likewise found a problem spot where air should not be getting into intake tract.


I'd check the air intake vents. Its the pipe that goes from the grill area of the car into the air filter box. I had a similar symptom and it ended being a air intake vent pipe that wasn't in place. I just popped it back in place and boooya!

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