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I have a 2007 V-Strom DL1000 motorcycle, whose recharge system is not recharging a new battery. I also have a multi-meter. Could someone share how I can check the recharge system without removing the components from the bike?

After some research online I've found some videos on how to check the rectifier and stator but the video mentions (but does not show) how such checks can be done without removing the equipment.

Information that I need would include a description of how the checks might be done and a pointer to any other checks that I can make to analyze why the bike is not recharging.

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I'll bet its your regulator/rectifier... I had a 2009 DL with same symptoms. Took it to the correct mechanic, who diagnosed it due to a product recall on the reg/rec.

Here's the link to the recall in Australia... 2008 - 2009 bikes. http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/1000722

  • Hi Scott, In this case I swapped out the regulator/rectifier but the problem persists. I traced the issue to the next item on my list (stator) but I think I will spring for a gasket so I can check the rotor before I lay down so much for a new stator. My understanding is that electrical issues can be impacted by a lot of things and can burn out equipment easily. I also reviewed a number of sites that indicate these bikes can have loose magnets in the rotor which might throw off the wrong voltage as a result. – Tommie C. Oct 21 '14 at 20:24
  • Update 2: Just as an FYI for other readers. In my case this turned out to be broken magnets that had fallen off my rotor. So, I'm just going to replace the rotor and hopefully that will get my charging system working again. – Tommie C. Nov 27 '14 at 21:04
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In general, if you have access to the battery when the engine is idling you can get a first-step diagnoses of whether the alternator is provided enough output. With the engine running check the battery voltage at, say:

  • Idle (800~1000 RPM)
  • 1500 RPM
  • 2500 RPM

You should have roughly 12.5-13.0 volts at idle, and 13.0-13.5 or more at higher RPM. If not then you most likely have an alternator that's not outputting enough.

If that's the case then you need to check the output at the alternator itself, if possible, to verify the same. You can check the other terminals at this point, the exact terminals varies between makes/models. Typically there is a ground, the output terminal, and a sense terminal for internally regulated alternators. There usually is an additional warning light output as well. If the ground and sense/output terminals are reading battery voltage but still isn't charging, then removal of the alternator is pretty much required.

  • "...whose recharge system is not recharging a new battery..." seems to indicate that the OP already knows that it's not... – TDHofstetter Aug 23 '14 at 23:36
  • This was helpful as it led me to check the output on the back of my stator connector (only 10.8 volts) and should be more than 75 according to my manual. I am checking the rotor/stator to see what's up (magnets or burned out stator). – Tommie C. Oct 21 '14 at 20:26
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Thanks for all the assistance. I finally got around to figuring this out and wanted to share the solution that worked best for me.

On-Bike Stator Check

How to test a motorcycle stator https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v2LtHlvcqI

To check the stator while on the bike:

  1. Locate the regulator/rectifier
  2. There are three yellow cables to link the regulator to the stator (I tested mine after swapping in a new regulator)
  3. On the open side of the regulator/stator connector using the three ports:

    • Set your multimeter set to OHMS
    • Test the three stator wires by alternating the positive/negative leads across the three ports:

    A > B

    B > C

    C > A

(see 1:42 on the video above, btw - sequence is not overly important just alternate)

  • Verify that nothing goes to ground from these wires by touching to the battery (see 2:06 on the video above)

Next test the stator while the bike is running

  1. Plug in the stator connector attached to the regulator/rectifier
  2. Start the bike
  3. Set the multimeter to VAC
  4. On the back side of the stator connector test the ports (Similar to OHMS test this VAC tests is against the three ports)

    Phase 1 to 2

    Phase 2 to 3

    Phase 3 to 1

(see 2:17 of video link provided)

When motor is cranked the voltage on the stator cables should increase exponentially as the RPM increases.

(see 2:51 of video)

On-Bike Rectifier/Regulator Check

See this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDx3zgOLShY)

To perform regulator diode check on bike:

  1. Set multimeter to diode function
  2. Find the regulator/rectifier on the bike
  3. Either unplug (or expose the back side of) the stator and diode connector(s) (can be one or two connectors, the stator connectors will normally be yellow wires)
  4. Separately test the forward/reverse bias of the positive and negative diode between the three stator leads. (see 2:08 of the video for how to do this)

The regulator/rectifier can apparently have other issues that can cause problems but this test is all that can be done on the bike.

On-Bike Battery Check

  1. Locate the battery positive (+/red cable normally) and negative (-/black cable normally) terminal; check the plastic on the battery near the terminal to be sure of terminal charge.
  2. Set multimeter to VDC
  3. Test battery at rest (no engine on, touch multimeter positive/negative cables to respective battery terminals); it should be between 12.5 and 12.8 (mine was 12.66)
  4. Test battery with engine on and note the rise in VDC when engine is revving.

BTW - Replacing the regulator required 6 screws and little to no elbow grease. Next up I need to consider replacing the stator.

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