The automatic windows on my 2005 Volvo XC90 roll back down after they have closed.
Does the computer think that something is stuck in the window, and roll it down?
It doesn't roll both of the windows at the same time.
The cheapest, easiest thing you can try is to disconnect your battery for 30 minutes (check your owner's manual for the proper way of doing this). When you connect the battery again, your electric windows would have reset their soft limits (so called because the SOFTware learns what "fully open" and "fully closed" "feels" like). You'll notice that your windows won't automatically open or close all the way when you press the button, you'll have to hold it in until they go all the way up or down. You'll need to do this a few times until the software "learns" where the limits are. After that, it should be fine. If not, at least you haven't spent any money yet.
The next step would be to go to an auto-electrician.
My S60R had the same problem on the driver side window. Hold the button fully in order to close the window, but hold it when it gets to the top for 10 seconds. You will hear the window "nudge" from inside the door. Then immediately release and fully press the button again. It should now go up and stay up when using the auto function of the switch. It seems though that there are variations of this "programming" depending on BCM version so if this does not work exactly like I said you should just check online for the other (slight) variations of this method.
Ultimately there must be deeper issue as a few months after I corrected mine, it started going down again just as it got to the top. From what I gather on from other sources is that it may or may not be a permanent solution.
Many vehicles equipped with remote keys have a "hidden" feature in which the windows roll down when the unlock button is pressed for a few seconds.
It may be that the unlock button is stuck and causes your windows to roll down. If this is the case, the windows should not roll down if you use a different, working remote or if the suspect remote is far away from the vehicle.
Can You open windows with remote key ? Some models have feature, that pressing unlock button for about 5 or 10 seconds vehicle unlocks and all windows goes down. If windows is opened, then press and hold lock button for about 5 or 10 seconds and then windows must close. In that way you can check if its mechanical (switch) problem or electrical (computer) problem. If you does not have that feature, then it is harder to detect problem. Probably must connect to VIDA/DICE tool and read according electronic device errors. And witch window that is ? Driver doors or another? Does that happens with driver switch or with according door switch too ?
This is a common problem on your XC90, I have a '06 and it did the same thing. In my case, the fix was to access the BCM via VIDA and recalibrate the windows. I forget the exact wording for that option, you'll find it under the BCM activations (it'll be obvious once you get into VIDA and it talks to your car, the
Activation terms both appear in the software).
If you don't have an independent mechanic with VIDA that could do it, and the dealer cost is too much (remind them that it'll take them 10 minutes to do), you could get a VIDA DVD + Dice interface for
I'm not claiming that this is the only way to do it, but it worked for me. Perhaps there's a way to perform the recalibration without using VIDA, but I haven't looked for it.
For my old 2004 S60 with this problem after I replaced the window channel clips, I tried Johann Myburgh's answer however it didn't change my symptoms; didn't want to disconnect the battery in the currently accepted answer by Captain Kenpachi for the reason that the commentator on that answer (MooseLucifer) stated about radio security measures after main power disconnect; nor did I want the expense of fixing this problem using VIDA as mentioned in Kuba Ober & Guntis answer's respectively, 'cause for goodness sakes what was wrong with the electronics simply detecting when the motor was drawing too much current that I recall being part of traditional power window controls (which intuitively accounts for obstructions in the window close path and also ends of windows movements being different to what it was previously(!))
Luckily I found a quicker and free way that did work for me in post #4 of http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?140864-how-to-do-power-window-calibration&highlight=window#/topics/140864 copied below also (Everything in 's were added by me) and decided to help the next "poor soul" who finds this page first:
Engage the auto-down function and [while window is moving] remove fuse 11C/5 (for driver's side) or 11C/4 (for passenger side) (located in the driver's side dash fusebox [This was one fuse, 32 if I recall correctly, labelled as suggesting it was for all my power windows in my S60]) during window movement.
Install fuse back into position.
Engage the auto-up function and hold it engaged for 5 seconds after the window has reached the fully closed position.
Verify window is now working properly.
Another option to try if all of the above fail. There is a relationship with user66001, just slightly different. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZs0uURnEN8&vl=ru