Timeline for '08 Kia Spectra won't start after head gasket/timing belt replacement
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
23 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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| Sep 16, 2016 at 7:15 | history | bumped | CommunityBot | This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed. | |
| Aug 17, 2016 at 9:04 | comment | added | Martin | Have you tried motor starter spray? Brake cleaner or deodorant should also work | |
| Aug 17, 2016 at 6:26 | answer | added | Verzlo | timeline score: 1 | |
| Mar 26, 2016 at 21:17 | history | tweeted | twitter.com/StackMechanics/status/713837297544863744 | ||
| Mar 25, 2016 at 22:50 | comment | added | zipzit | Ugh. That's terrible pricing. That manual is the kind of thing you will use today, and then again 18 months from now. Look for an actual Haynes or Chilton's paper manual. I see AutoZone has Haynes available on their website. Oops. and the price is now just under $30, sigh. I also see manuals on Ebay < $20 | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 22:24 | comment | added | ezmopho | Is this what you're talking about? repair.chiltondiy.com/Pub/DIY/… | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 22:01 | history | edited | George | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
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| Mar 25, 2016 at 22:00 | comment | added | zipzit | A $20 Chilton style manual is probably money well spent. It will tell you a lot about how your car works. Includes lots of troubleshooting info specifically for your make and model. Wiring diagrams, torque numbers specs.. some include diagnostic codes. Its also possible you can read engine codes on your vehicle with special button presses at the cluster. The repair manual will tell you this stuff. With the questions you are asking here this is good value. | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 21:22 | comment | added | ezmopho | We got torquing info from the local KIA dealer. | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 21:20 | comment | added | zipzit | Er.. wait just a minute. Are you telling me you swapped a head gasket without having a service manual? How did you know where to torque the head bolts? Yeah, if you did that job without reference that's not good. You are doomed to fail. If you have the manual, then you would be reading up on your own question "Where would the crank position sensor be?" Again here's what I don't know.. Year and make --> type of distributor system, electronic with position sensors (1 or 2) or manual dist Your repair book should show that stuff. I suspect you've got a spark problem, related to mis-assembly. | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 21:12 | comment | added | zipzit | You will definitely want to use a book to tell you where Top Dead Center (TDC) should be, where the distributor should be pointing at that point, and where each of the wires should be routed. Generally you'll find a page that shows the cylinder order, the firing order, how to read TDC AND the alignment of the distributor inside the distributor cap. | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 21:10 | comment | added | zipzit | Lets talk about firing order. Assuming this is a four cylinder engine, the firing order is 1-3-4-2.. In that order. If you swap wires anywhere and that order gets swapped = no go. If you get the #1 wire in the wrong place, even though you have the right firing order, you may not have the correct #1 start sequence. (in effect you'd have 3-4-2-1 or 2-1-3-4) again, that means = no go. You have to have the correct firing order AND the correct start timing. Timing is based on crankshaft position (Top Dead Center) and valve timing... remember this is a four cycle engine. | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 20:57 | comment | added | ezmopho | @mikes, yes we know that the fuel pump is working, we disconnected it, and gas came pouring out every time we turn the key! | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 20:52 | comment | added | mikes | Listen for the fuel pump, is it running? I had a similar issue it turned out to be a ground wire I did not reattach. It would occasionally hit the frame and fire but only for a few seconds. | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 20:49 | comment | added | ezmopho | Sorry, @zipzit, I don't quite understand what you mean. By #1 do you mean the first piston? Where would the crank position sensor be? | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 20:13 | comment | added | Zaid | I think @zipzit is onto something. Lack of cam/crank position sensor signal can cause trouble. There are a bunch of other possibilities though, as others have mentioned (fuel, air, compression, etc.) | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 19:44 | comment | added | zipzit | Firing order ?? Is #1 correct relative to Top Dead Center? Functional crank position sensor ? (Hall effect = easy test with a volt ohm meter and screwdriver...) | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 18:29 | comment | added | ezmopho | I'm not sure how I would go about verifying compression. @Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2, We removed the plug, while it was still attached to the wire, and when held close to metal, it sparked when the engine was cranked. Yep, we checked and double checked all the wires and plugs. | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 17:49 | comment | added | JPhi1618 | With as much as you would have had to take off to do all the work you claim, there are several electronic sensors and devices that would need to be plugged back in. Make sure you don't have any loose connectors or crimped/cut wires. | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 17:33 | comment | added | Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦ | How/where did you verify the spark? | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 17:15 | comment | added | rpmerf | can you verify your getting compression? | |
| Mar 25, 2016 at 16:29 | review | First posts | |||
| Mar 25, 2016 at 23:54 | |||||
| Mar 25, 2016 at 16:26 | history | asked | ezmopho | CC BY-SA 3.0 |