286 reputation
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location Lancaster, PA
age
visits member for 2 years, 4 months
seen 2 days ago

Graduated LVC, BS in CS. Mostly used Linux (slackware circa kernel 1.2.8) as my main OS, but gradually used Windows 95 more. Initially did some system admin work in NT4, then went the direction of programming, working mostly in Access 97 (for frontend and backend) for about 2 years. After picking up DB design, moved up to MSSQL 7, with VB6 for a frontend. Designed many classic ASP apps with compiled web class ActiveX DLL's and MSSQL 2000 as the DB server. Picked up MySQL and Oracle.

In 2003, started full time development in VC++ with MFC. Started using subversion in combination with bugzilla for management of off-the-shelf kiosk application. In 2005, started dev in .Net 2.0 with C#. Actively develop company website transaction management in ASP.Net, with MSSQL 2005 backend.

Currently learning EF4 in the hope of porting a VB6 Application using an Access 2000 backend to a .Net 4 application using WPF with the MVVM pattern, and SQLite DB for backend.

I work at KioWare, which makes Kiosk Software for Windows and Android.


Aug
7
comment Lights turn on randomly on Mazda 323
Absolutely -- the problem may not be physical; it could still be electrical. There could be a short in the control arm itself. One other thing to observe: does the control arm have "play"? Do you have access to a similar vehicle to compare the amount of play to a control case?
Aug
7
comment Lights turn on randomly on Mazda 323
Based entirely off of the fact that the issue can be mitigated by fiddling with the dash control, I'm going to guess that your problem is entirely with that (as opposed to the rest of the electrical system). Maybe the control arm has had one of it's "stops" break off, and there's no longer a physical piece of plastic to prevent it from engaging? Read: there may be a low-tech solution to this.
Jun
20
comment Location of fill tube for Nissan Pintara auto transmission fluid
I googled for: NISSAN PINTARA 1989-1992 WORKSHOP and found a number of relevant hits. Just be careful what you download. Only download PDFs; never run a "downloader" or an "installer" to get at a file. If it's legit, they'll link to the PDF directly.
Jun
20
comment Remote Car Climate Controller
On a VW, the key needs to be present. If it isn't, the immobilizer will prevent the car from starting.
May
28
comment A/C Does Not Continuously Blow Cold
@Paulster2 Some of the forums mentioned keeping the power pulled for 30+ minutes, then having to do multiple drive cycles before the blend doors did their exercises.
May
28
comment A/C Does Not Continuously Blow Cold
Apparently there's also a way to recalibrate via a scan tool.
May
28
comment A/C Does Not Continuously Blow Cold
Just did some reading -- if the power is pulled, the system will perform an auto-recalibration on the blend doors. Might want to give that a try.
May
28
comment A/C Does Not Continuously Blow Cold
FYI, on my 94 Grand Cherokee, the actuator is electrical. Then again, my system doesn't have climate control; it just has a blue/red dial like @BobCross described above.
May
28
comment A/C Does Not Continuously Blow Cold
Wow, that info certainly seems to point to a failure in the heater box. I like the question @BobCross asked re: climate control. Everything about this is pointing to a problem blending air.
May
28
comment A/C Does Not Continuously Blow Cold
Does the amount of revving impact the temp of the air? Is the air always cold until the car warms up? (this could add credence to the theory of a blend door issue, since the heater core starts out cold and warms up.) If the line's cold, I'd expect the evap to be cold, too. When the a/c goes lukewarm, does the a/c LP line go warm too?
May
28
comment A/C Does Not Continuously Blow Cold
If there are times when it seems to be blowing very cold, I wouldn't expect the blend door to be a issue. I'd expect a partially open blend door to present as consistently non-cold air.
Jan
17
comment Jetta intermittent starting problem
There are two different situations at play - the general inability to start, and the "starts, but shuts off after 3 seconds due to immobilizer". Aside from the immobilizer code, what other codes does it throw?
Dec
6
comment How to extend the life of the dual mass flywheel in a diesel engine?
@OrenMazor On my 2001 1.8t Jetta, I replaced my Dual Mass 1.8T flywheel with a Single Mass VR6 flywheel. It was 1/4 of the price, but introduced a little bit of chatter due to the unbalanced mass.. but should also be able to handle more, since it's for a VR6. Going on 40,000 miles now (last clutch lasted 176k), and it's fine.
Nov
5
comment Clicking when 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee is in motion
As a post-mortem, I ended up finding a huge hole in the bottom of the transfer case (pushed from the inside-out!) Without any ATF in there, it was getting really noisy. I went to a local salvage yard, got a used NP 231 and put it in, and now it's quiet again....
Oct
30
comment Timing chain of a mercedes benz
FYI, what you want to know is if your car has a free-running or interference engine. An interference engine out of time will damage the valve(s) and/or cylinder head(s).
Oct
18
comment Jetta repair forum
+1 for the Ross-tech mention. Also a note -- if you go with a one-off brand, Ross-tech tries very hard to make sure that you must have a genuine cable in order to use their software. Additionally, the VCDS forum at VwVortex will only assist users that own verified Ross-tech cables. One last note, those things have a very high resale value, so it's difficult to get a used one for a huge discount. Best you'll do is 50-100 bucks off retail.
Oct
18
comment Clicking when 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee is in motion
@Larry I posted an answer; it's the transfer case.
Oct
18
comment Clicking when 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee is in motion
+1 Thanks for this -- although it wasn't the problem, it was still incredibly helpful.
Sep
23
comment Clicking when 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee is in motion
@Larry Great questions; I'll try these scenarios tonight.
Dec
3
comment Brakes gripping and causing skidding
@BobCross Thanks for taking a look at it; I agree regarding your comment. At the time, a friend of mine suggested that a drum or rotor may be warped. If the brakes are still exhibiting this behavior, it's completely overshadowed by the skid. A coworker of mine suggested that this could be a problem with the master cylinder, but that type of repair is getting a bit beyond my level of skill.