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3

Check out the Yamaha web site for the models you are interested in. They should list technical specifications for each model. If you are concerned about performance differences focus on peak horsepower and peak torque at a specific rpm along with top speed.


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The issue could be a vacuum forming in the fuel tank (check vents), looking at the yamaha site, it doesn't look like you have any active cooling (fan/radiator) so unlikely to be that. There may also be an air-hose leaking somewhere or possibly a vacuum leak from the intake manifold.


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Breaking in the engine correctly will greatly affect the longevity and performance of the bike, plus you have warranty regards to worry about as well. I found this from a Yamaha forum and seems along the lines of what I understood to be right: According to Yamaha, you are to keep the engine below 5900 rpm for the first 600 miles and vary the rpm. Do not ...


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To add on to Mikes answer: Next you'll probably find that the carb is full of varnish. (a thick sludge left behind when gasoline sits in a puddle for a long time). You'll probably end up having to disassemble and clean it out, you may need to by a carburetor rebuild kit. (probably) Next, there's a good chance that the rodents have damaged the wiring. ...


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Remove the spark plug. Squirt some oil into the cylinder,you can use regular motor oil but Liquid Wrench or equivilent would be better. Let it soak overnight.With the bike in neutral see if the motor will spin over using the kickstarter. If it won't turnover the motor is seized. At this point it is not worth repairing but could be a valuble learning tool. ...


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Took it to a mechanic and he found the problem with a test ride. It is a side effect of the lowering links being installed too low. I am just too dang short for the bike. After I sit on the bike the chain hits the chain roller (which was torn all up) and at a certain vibration you hear it clinking away. I'm re-installing the factor links and hope I don't ...


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Modern motors (and other aggregates) produced by reputable manufacturers (Yamaha be one of them) for established markets (Western Europe, Australia, North America etc.) are engineered with low tolerances, thus should have little variances in operation. In emerging markets engines could be (or could have been not long ago) older, and poorer manufacturing ...


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The 2012 XJ6 is fuel injected, so an aftermarket exhaust (Arrows, Leo Vince, Scorpion, Two Brothers, Akrapovic etc) would be easily procured. You may even get good deals on used slip-on exhausts, and you could then re-pack the glass wool (other as applicable) if required. In order to keep the cost down, you could opt for a slip-on exhaust (muffler) instead ...


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Answer: the plastic screws are really delicate and they do not turn with enough accuracy to really unlock the panel. The only way I have found is to insert a lever and pull harder, and the panel comes out without breaking anything.


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The battery is dead. You are hearing the starter solenoid clicking over. Does your bike not have a kick-starter? It's only a 250, it should, right? I don't know much about new bikes at all. If you do happen to flood the engine again, just go full choke, and spin the engine over a few times. That should help unflood them, if that doesn't work, go inside ...


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The battery was dead. I removed it, put it on the tender, and she was able to turn after a charge. Just goes to show its a very large amount of juice needed to get the engine started. Don't undermine the importance of tending.


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There's usually two methods people discuss. The 1st method is the one Paulster2 described, which is by the manufacturers suggestion in the manual. The 2nd is a more controversial method of running it hard. Here's a snippet from [MotoMan][1]: The Short Answer: Run it Hard ! Why ?? Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in ...


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I had to look it up as I've never heard of an AG200 but I know what TW125/200 is If your looking under the right side engine cover, lock the clutch and primary drive gear with a penny between teeth, it's easier than trying to use the special tool you need but don't have Make sure you don't use the oil pump drive gear as it is too small for the load and ...


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I highly recommend that you find yourself a shop manual for the bike. These are available in hard copy version, and sometimes in PDF format as well. It will make it clear how to perform various operations, and make it less likely that you will do it wrong. I highly recommend that you do not mess with any of the gears. Transmissions run at very tight ...


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Carbon Fouling is caused by incomplete combustion. The usual cause of this is an over-rich mixture, but it sounds like you've checked most of the elements that could cause that. What condition is the ignition system in? Distributor, HT leads etc? I assume you've checked the mixture when you changed the jets, but what about the choke (if she has one)? What ...


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You might be able to find something used on eBay that will fit, but who knows how much wear it has had? If you plan to keep the bike a while I would shell out for new, high-quality shocks. Here's a link to some that say they work. They should come with the bushings needed. Yes, the price is pretty steep, but shock technology has advanced a lot in the ...


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Have you tried contacting a large bearing distributor. Here in Australia I've used CBC Bearings in the past to obtain transmission bearings.



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