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10

Xenon headlights require different electronics to drive them, but they also need different reflectors and also a light leveling system to prevent blinding the drivers of other cars, because the HID lights are so much brighter than traditional lights. If you look closely at a car with HID lights, with the lights shining on something in front of them, you ...


3

So you need to find out where on your drive train. Get your Jeep up off the ground so you can drive the wheels, and have a listen. Likely places: Differential Universal joints on axles Tire rubbing on bodywork Brake pad rubbing against disc


2

Claptrap is on the money with grease points, but many modern cars don't have them, and I can't speak to how the Wrangler is setup. That is the perfect starting point, though. The next step would be to spray down all the rubber mounting points (suspension bushings, shock mounts, etc) with white lithium grease to see if that quiets it down at all. I fear ...


2

It's easier just to buy the filter adapter kit for $50 that way you don't have to tap a return line either. That's what I did. But if your cheap sometimes engines have an extra oil feed bung down on the lower part of the engine block near where the oil pump would be just above the oil pan. Don't know if your jeep has one but worth a quick snoop.


2

I have struggled with the Death Wobble in my 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. It would only happen at EXACTLY 45 MPH, but once it started it would continue +/- 20 MPH. Once past 45, it would not start unless I hit a bump. If I replaced the steering stabilizer ($40 on eBay), then it would subside for ~2-3 months, but always return. Things I tried that didn't ...


2

I pulled some information from another site (jeepz.com). It looks fairly exhaustive in what should be done to fix the dreaded death wobble. I originally thought the death wobble was only due to a bad wheel bearing, but it appears there is much more to it. I am going to pull what it says on the jeepz.com website. Here is what the site says about what exactly ...


2

Talking a look at the article some of the items you can check yourself, for example the ball joints. Other balancing and alignment actions require special equipment. I would suggesting taking that list and checking everything you are able to on your own first. Your Hayne's Manual should walk you through steps to check the suspension parts.


1

Another thought: Quite a few years ago I had a full-sized van, and the water pump failed. I replaced the pump (used new gaskets, of course), and re-used the old antifreeze. It wasn't enough to fill the radiator, so I added more. My stepson drove the van the next day... and when he got back from work, the radiator was half-empty again. I pulled the water pump ...


1

It all depends on where the fluid is coming from. If you can determine where it is leaking from, you'll be far ahead of where you are now. If it is coming from the water pump or one of the connections at the water pump, it would appear the problem lies with the shop which did the work for you. You need to take it back to where it was fixed and have them ...


1

It depends, mainly, on how well the car has been maintained. If it has been looked after, serviced regularly, and had the belts changed at the appropriate intervals, then yes, it should last a lot longer than that - I'd expect to get a good 150,000 miles / 250,000km out of most modern engines without too much trouble. On the other hand, if it has been ...


1

Your engine should run smoothly the second you change your spark plugs, smoother than before even, that's the whole point of replacing them. Otherwise, something else is wrong or was performed improperly.


1

I own a 1987 Land Cruiser, the death wobble on these machine can come from a bad aligment, tie-rod ends that need replacement or the steering stabilizer. Basically something is now worn-out and loose. But be aware, changing the stabilizer may just mask any underlying issue, so check everything else before replacing the stabilizer.



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