Hot answers tagged wiring
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The frame ground is needed. Although the engine is bolted to the frame all the connection points are isolated hence insulated by rubber. The reason for the rubber mounts is to isolate the engine vibration and the resulting stress from the frame. Some older vehicles did use a single ground to the block. This required a second ground wire from the block to the ...
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When you buy a replacement battery cable they come with additional wires with crimp connectors on them for applications that require it. That way the aftermarket supplier can make one part number fit several vehicles. Take the picture below it fits vehicles that have a side post battery and need a 45 inch length. The extra wire may or may not be required ...
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You should maintain both ground wires. If you removed battery to chassis you would have to add engine to chassis wiring. The battery to engine wire is there to ground the alternator.
Battery to chassis wiring is probably a safer, shorter, and easier run than engine to chassis anyways so why bother.
You probably want 2gauge wire all the way around. You ...
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So you want to keep the factory amp? I wouldn't suggest that. I'd recommend getting rid of the factory amp altogether, they're usually not the best, and it would be difficult - if not impossible - for them to work together.
I google'd for a quick sanity check and I'll post a snippet from WikiAnswers:
I wouldn't...first most after market amps require a ...
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The headlight wiring is protected from being overheated (a short,overcurrent) by a circuit breaker. It operates like a circuit breaker in your house except it has an auto reset feature. The clicking you hear may be the circuit breaker resetting. With your admitted limited knowledge this is a job for a pro.
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You can also get source sensing amplifiers, which will further make this simpler. If they detect signal from your smartphone, they'll turn on, if not, it'll turn off after some amount of delay.
The next question is whether or not you can (or would want to) hook your smartphone or other source directly to an amplifier. It might work, it might not. There ...
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What you need is a simple switch. Here's an example of one that you can order from DigiKey.
Your radio will use two wires for powering itself, the ground (GND) and V+. The ground wire should be grounded, that is connected to negative (-) terminal of the battery. The V+ wire should be connected to one connector of the switch. Battery positive terminal (+) ...
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The yellow wire needs to be connected to +12 volts all the time (even with the car off), it sounds like you have this wire connected to switch power. This is the memory wire for the radio that allows it to retain settings when the car is off.
I may be wrong on the color of the wire, I was basing my information on the manual provided by Phillips here (PDF ...
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For a preliminary inspection, I would arm the alarm, then walk around and pull on each door. If it doesn't go off, then you're probably looking at wiring. Bang on the metal of each door and see if you can make the light come on. Tug in the harness under the dash and the lower side kick panels in front of the doors and under the dash.
The two most common ...
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If this is only happening when the vehicle is in motion, I'd visually trace the wiring and look for a point where a wire or wire bundle is rubbing on something and has worn through the insulation.
If it doesn't exhibit the problem when it's parked, it's going to be hard to track down with a multimeter or test light. Unless you can reproduce it by gently ...
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Many amplifiers have low-level inputs using RCA style connections. You can use one of those with a RCA to 1/8" stereo jack for your phone. Switching it could be accomplished through a switch like you mentioned or hopefully there's an ignition-only wire that can be used on the amplifier. They typically have an ignition input just used to switch the power.
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Cycling HID lamps the way you propose will reduce the lifespan of the bulbs, they aren't made to be turned back on shortly after being turned off.
Also, I'm having trouble making sense of your schematic - the oval labeled "LIGHTS" - is that supposed to represent the ballast? I don't know that I'd power that directly from your H4, seems like I'd want a new ...
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The colours Larry listed are the ISO standard ones, which it seems Peugeot don't follow.
The permanent live should be pin 7, which is the thick blue wire in your photo. The thin blue wire in pin 4 should be live when the ignition is on. Pin 8 (yellow & green) should be ground, and pin 5 (white) should power the electic aerial. The others are ignored in ...
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It depends on the design of the ends. Normally power connectors are just crimped, whereas data connectors are often crimped and soldered. While vice grips/hammer can crimp in an emergency, it's not going to do a proper crimp. You really want the right tools doing this, especially in large gage wire (which can obviously carry a lot of current). I'd ...
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I have yet to find a Japanese car that doesn't have the connectors strategically arranged to where it's not possible to connect the wrong things together. There should be a matching connector somewhere.
The only exception to that are diagnostic connectors used at the factory and dealerships to test components. Those will not have their counterparts anywhere ...
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Just to report back - I hate leaving questions unanswered on the Stack... forums.
I don't understand it, but when my mechanic swapped the 2 wires that connect the horn-push-button to the steering wheel, the horn started working properly.
Perhaps this had something to do with grounding or something...
Anyway, there it is - thanks for the other suggestions ...
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