Hot answers tagged

14

No, you don't have to rely on wire colors to figure out what's what. With nothing more than a decent multimeter and premix flame (blowtorch or gas stove), a two-test sequence can reveal the identity of each wire, assuming the O2 sensor is fully-functional: Determine the heater wires This should be done first. These wires serve to heat up the O2 sensor ...


12

Corrosion on the terminals is due to hydrogen gas being released from the acid in the battery. It mixes with other things in the atmosphere under the hood and produces the corrosion you see on the terminals. Generally, if the corrosion is occurring on the negative terminal, your system is probably undercharging. If on the positive side, it is probably ...


11

The frame ground is needed. Although the engine is bolted to the frame all the connection points are isolated hence insulated by rubber. The reason for the rubber mounts is to isolate the engine vibration and the resulting stress from the frame. Some older vehicles did use a single ground to the block. This required a second ground wire from the block to the ...


11

How can I convert the DC current from my battery to power the blender in the Jeep? The only solution is a 12V DC to 110V AC inverter. Google is full of this, so I just linked google. Your blender has nearly 400W, so you should look for something in the 500W range to have some margin. However, this makes 400W/12V=33.3A, which is very unlikely to be ...


8

absolutely DO NOT replace a BALLAST with a RELAY. They perform different functions completely and are in no way related. Relay = Switch Ballast = Current Regulation A solid state relay may have some voltage limitation attributes but you need to be sure that it matches the ballast that will be provided with your HID kit. I HIGHLY recommend you use those. ...


8

This is quite easy, but you need to do yourself a favor and get a factory wiring diagram. It will save you hours of frustration and confusion. The factory wiring diagrams will tell you exactly when the circuits are active and when they aren't. On top of that they will tell you the colors and sometimes the current flow. You really don't want to hook up a ...


7

You should maintain both ground wires. If you removed battery to chassis you would have to add engine to chassis wiring. The battery to engine wire is there to ground the alternator. Battery to chassis wiring is probably a safer, shorter, and easier run than engine to chassis anyways so why bother. You probably want 2gauge wire all the way around. You ...


7

If there is nothing connected to it (which can draw power), no power will be drawn. To me that means there are no drawbacks. I would not have an issue of making the socket as always hot for just the purpose you suggest. NOTE: I don't know what else I can add here.


6

When you buy a replacement battery cable they come with additional wires with crimp connectors on them for applications that require it. That way the aftermarket supplier can make one part number fit several vehicles. Take the picture below it fits vehicles that have a side post battery and need a 45 inch length. The extra wire may or may not be required ...


6

What you need is a simple switch. Here's an example of one that you can order from DigiKey. Your radio will use two wires for powering itself, the ground (GND) and V+. The ground wire should be grounded, that is connected to negative (-) terminal of the battery. The V+ wire should be connected to one connector of the switch. Battery positive terminal (+) ...


6

I took my car to a different VW shop (not the dealership) and they fixed the problem for $160, but if I'd known the solution was just to solder the wires directly together, I could have fixed it myself. I did however, learn what the problem was thanks to them and I'll share the solution here. VW apparently knows about this issue and supposedly offers special ...


6

I can think of several reasons straight away: Cheap Easy to replace Have a very distinctive click that makes it obvious when they are on, and when a bulb has failed Are very well understood Anyone can fit one without needing to understand much about electronics


5

Just add more ground/earth cables, wherever you can. Shorter the better too. Ive added a larger battery to chassis, battery to block and everywhere that makes sense/is out of site, ive added in more chassis to block cables etc... Every bit extra helps.


5

If you place a jumper wire between a always-on 12V source and a switched 12V source, you've now turned your switched wire into an always-on wire (with power supplied from your original always-on source). This is not advisable, and is almost certainly not what you want. It could also create a risk of fire if the fuse for your unswitched source is too large ...


5

In general silicone gease applied to the parts before and after assembly is a good way to go. It will be pushed out of the way where you have tight metal to metal contact so it won't cause electrical connection problems. It won't crack up if things move slightly and it won't stop you dismantling and reassembling things if you need to.


5

Sounds like a bad ground. I would install new ground wires. Get some heavy cable (like 2-6 gauge multi strand) and solder some lugs onto it. Wire the battery to body, then that same point on the body to the block. Make sure all spots are nice and clean. Be sure to give yourself some slack


5

The power socket has a simple two cavity connector. It will most likely have #2 female spade connectors. Connect a new device with male spade connectors after first verifying polarity. I would not look for a matching connector, finding one is unlikely. I just take them apart and make a plan. Drawing of power connector. It may not matter to your plans ...


4

Your best bet appears to be the firewall pass-through behind the gas pedal. That should allow you to run behind the dash fairly directly.


4

http://www.wedophones.com/Manuals/Nissan/2003-Nissan-Xterra.pdf That should help ;) Not sure where you can find a universal wiring kit though. The aftermarket headunit should have a small diagram on it as well.


4

First off I can say that I have done something like this, but with the ignition and not the horn - my friends ignition switch broke so we wired a bright red push button directly from the battery (well - actually a fused 12v line inside the car) to the starter motor coil - it has since worked like a champ for nearly two years. First off - DO NOT wire ...


4

The headlight wiring is protected from being overheated (a short,overcurrent) by a circuit breaker. It operates like a circuit breaker in your house except it has an auto reset feature. The clicking you hear may be the circuit breaker resetting. With your admitted limited knowledge this is a job for a pro.


4

The yellow wire needs to be connected to +12 volts all the time (even with the car off), it sounds like you have this wire connected to switch power. This is the memory wire for the radio that allows it to retain settings when the car is off. I may be wrong on the color of the wire, I was basing my information on the manual provided by Phillips here (PDF ...


4

It certainly shouldn't hurt anything, but it is unlikely to help either as the wires to your starter should be appropriate anyway. If your wiring is old then you may see an improvement, otherwise I would suggest leaving it alone.


4

See if this picture helps you. Keep in mind most manufactures only use one main harness regardless of the accessories. So even if you don't have heated seats, or traction control the connectors and the harness are already there. Also here is the pin-out for the traction control switch Look on the inside of the drivers door for a label that looks like ...


4

You could use electrical tape to accomplish this, but the better way to do it would be to individually replace the broken wire portions using lengths of wire, solder, and heat shrink. This would be the safer, longer lasting solution. It's a lot of work, but well worth it in the end. The only issue would be the color coding of the wire, though black heat ...


4

There are several things you can look for: Complete paths Electricity requires a complete path from positive to negative. In a car with that kind of age, I would be checking that you don't have bad grounds or corroded connections. Especially where the ground straps connect between the body and engine block. Slice and dice the problem First thing to ...


4

Your car Audio should work well in your garage .Mine has been running for 17 years now .The 12 V DC power supply needs to be rated for the job as others have commented .If you use a switchmode power supply which is more common these days you may get noisey radio reception due to the crud that these supplies put out .Placing the Antenna on the roof will ...


4

Do you know what each gauge is rated at for current carrying capacity? I would think a daisy chain is fine as long as the wire gauge is large enough. Don't neglect to use the same gauge of wire for both power(DC+) and ground. I'd look at the specs for each display gauge, add a bit of safety margin, then add the current up and calculate the wire gauge ...


3

You can also get source sensing amplifiers, which will further make this simpler. If they detect signal from your smartphone, they'll turn on, if not, it'll turn off after some amount of delay. The next question is whether or not you can (or would want to) hook your smartphone or other source directly to an amplifier. It might work, it might not. There ...


3

This is almost certainly one of the door 'pin switches' out of adjustment. Try making up a pad of some sort where the door shuts onto the switches. I have used stick on wheel weights quite effectively for this!.



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