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6

The frame ground is needed. Although the engine is bolted to the frame all the connection points are isolated hence insulated by rubber. The reason for the rubber mounts is to isolate the engine vibration and the resulting stress from the frame. Some older vehicles did use a single ground to the block. This required a second ground wire from the block to the ...


6

When you buy a replacement battery cable they come with additional wires with crimp connectors on them for applications that require it. That way the aftermarket supplier can make one part number fit several vehicles. Take the picture below it fits vehicles that have a side post battery and need a 45 inch length. The extra wire may or may not be required ...


5

If you place a jumper wire between a always-on 12V source and a switched 12V source, you've now turned your switched wire into an always-on wire (with power supplied from your original always-on source). This is not advisable, and is almost certainly not what you want. It could also create a risk of fire if the fuse for your unswitched source is too large ...


4

http://www.wedophones.com/Manuals/Nissan/2003-Nissan-Xterra.pdf That should help ;) Not sure where you can find a universal wiring kit though. The aftermarket headunit should have a small diagram on it as well.


4

First off I can say that I have done something like this, but with the ignition and not the horn - my friends ignition switch broke so we wired a bright red push button directly from the battery (well - actually a fused 12v line inside the car) to the starter motor coil - it has since worked like a champ for nearly two years. First off - DO NOT wire ...


4

You should maintain both ground wires. If you removed battery to chassis you would have to add engine to chassis wiring. The battery to engine wire is there to ground the alternator. Battery to chassis wiring is probably a safer, shorter, and easier run than engine to chassis anyways so why bother. You probably want 2gauge wire all the way around. You ...


3

Yes, these two wires should be connected together. This is what allows the radio to retract the antenna when it isn't being used. Just because your wiring harness has a connection for this wire, it doesn't necessarily mean that your car has this kind of motorized antenna. Even if that's the case, there's still no harm in making the connection.


3

Start from the beginning. Check your battery. Then check your fried cables. Try to fix as much as possible. Make sure nothing is short-circuited. If all looks good, pull out the electric wiring diagram and identify all the items which prevents it from starting. Measure all these points and make sure there is no short/open circuits. The obvious would be: ...


3

So you want to keep the factory amp? I wouldn't suggest that. I'd recommend getting rid of the factory amp altogether, they're usually not the best, and it would be difficult - if not impossible - for them to work together. I google'd for a quick sanity check and I'll post a snippet from WikiAnswers: I wouldn't...first most after market amps require a ...


3

Typically car stereos do require a constant voltage source in order to keep settings - they may have a supercap which keeps settings for a short while (for changing batteries over etc), but over time this may degrade, and in any case is only designed to last for a few minutes. In order to do this you usually have an unswitched power wire directly from the ...


3

The headlight wiring is protected from being overheated (a short,overcurrent) by a circuit breaker. It operates like a circuit breaker in your house except it has an auto reset feature. The clicking you hear may be the circuit breaker resetting. With your admitted limited knowledge this is a job for a pro.


3

You can also get source sensing amplifiers, which will further make this simpler. If they detect signal from your smartphone, they'll turn on, if not, it'll turn off after some amount of delay. The next question is whether or not you can (or would want to) hook your smartphone or other source directly to an amplifier. It might work, it might not. There ...


3

What you need is a simple switch. Here's an example of one that you can order from DigiKey. Your radio will use two wires for powering itself, the ground (GND) and V+. The ground wire should be grounded, that is connected to negative (-) terminal of the battery. The V+ wire should be connected to one connector of the switch. Battery positive terminal (+) ...


3

The yellow wire needs to be connected to +12 volts all the time (even with the car off), it sounds like you have this wire connected to switch power. This is the memory wire for the radio that allows it to retain settings when the car is off. I may be wrong on the color of the wire, I was basing my information on the manual provided by Phillips here (PDF ...


2

For a preliminary inspection, I would arm the alarm, then walk around and pull on each door. If it doesn't go off, then you're probably looking at wiring. Bang on the metal of each door and see if you can make the light come on. Tug in the harness under the dash and the lower side kick panels in front of the doors and under the dash. The two most common ...


2

If this is only happening when the vehicle is in motion, I'd visually trace the wiring and look for a point where a wire or wire bundle is rubbing on something and has worn through the insulation. If it doesn't exhibit the problem when it's parked, it's going to be hard to track down with a multimeter or test light. Unless you can reproduce it by gently ...


2

Many amplifiers have low-level inputs using RCA style connections. You can use one of those with a RCA to 1/8" stereo jack for your phone. Switching it could be accomplished through a switch like you mentioned or hopefully there's an ignition-only wire that can be used on the amplifier. They typically have an ignition input just used to switch the power.


2

Cycling HID lamps the way you propose will reduce the lifespan of the bulbs, they aren't made to be turned back on shortly after being turned off. Also, I'm having trouble making sense of your schematic - the oval labeled "LIGHTS" - is that supposed to represent the ballast? I don't know that I'd power that directly from your H4, seems like I'd want a new ...


2

The problem with a short if I understand what you mean by that term is that anything else on the circuit that is being shorted now goes on when your secondary switch is turned on. Only you know if that actually IS a problem. One other thing to consider is whether this switched circuit is fused at the same current rating as the 12 accessory circuit. If you ...


2

Best Buy will have one. Go to their stereo installation shop, which is usually accessed around the side of the building. They will have the harness adapter which will plug directly from your new stereo to the existing wire harness without the need for modification, so you can reinstall your old stereo if you ever sell the car. They will also have ...


1

There's two power wires going to the starter. The big one is always on, and the little one is controlled by the key switch/remote start system. So, measure power at the little wire; my guess is that you don't get any power there while the key's in the start position. I think the next thing I would do is find the point in the wiring where the remote start ...


1

According to this Fusible link FAQ: What size replacement fusible link should be used ? The automotive service industry recommends using the same gauge and length as the blown fusible link after the cause of failure is corrected. Ensure the size/length you put back in is the size/length you took out. Also, as I've highlighted, a new fusible link ...


1

Okay, I managed to find the other end of the connector I pulled apart. Following the wire attached to the connector leads to a bracket (circled below) near the glove box. If this were to happen again, I could find this bracket then follow the wire to locate the connector.


1

From reading the question, you seem to understand that you're looking at part of a ground lead and that the ring side is going to connect to the ground connector of your new radio. The mystery is where the white end goes. It's pretty clearly a piece that's meant to connect to a specific place in the wiring harness that, I assume, is going to give you a ...


1

If you can get a hold of the wiring diagrams for your car you could probably figure it out. Both the transmission gear wiring and lock and unlock likely go to the Smart Junction Control Box (SJB) if you can pull the wiring diagram for that (It will have ton of stuff though) you can trace where the gear indicator wiring comes from and whether it will be ...


1

The colours Larry listed are the ISO standard ones, which it seems Peugeot don't follow. The permanent live should be pin 7, which is the thick blue wire in your photo. The thin blue wire in pin 4 should be live when the ignition is on. Pin 8 (yellow & green) should be ground, and pin 5 (white) should power the electic aerial. The others are ignored in ...


1

I haven't used one of these, so I can't speak from personal experience, but this connector looks promising. I found a review of the connector, I have no idea how independent it is, but it goes into the build details.


1

It depends on the design of the ends. Normally power connectors are just crimped, whereas data connectors are often crimped and soldered. While vice grips/hammer can crimp in an emergency, it's not going to do a proper crimp. You really want the right tools doing this, especially in large gage wire (which can obviously carry a lot of current). I'd ...


1

I have yet to find a Japanese car that doesn't have the connectors strategically arranged to where it's not possible to connect the wrong things together. There should be a matching connector somewhere. The only exception to that are diagnostic connectors used at the factory and dealerships to test components. Those will not have their counterparts anywhere ...


1

Just to report back - I hate leaving questions unanswered on the Stack... forums. I don't understand it, but when my mechanic swapped the 2 wires that connect the horn-push-button to the steering wheel, the horn started working properly. Perhaps this had something to do with grounding or something... Anyway, there it is - thanks for the other suggestions ...



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