Hot answers tagged

18

I had a similar problem with my car a while back. The trick I used was as follows. Loosen the nuts right off, but don't remove them (leaving three or four threads on), so they restrain the wheel when it comes free. Jack the car up and support it solidly on stands - I also put the spare wheel under the sill on the side I am working on. Take a 2-3lb club ...


16

My wife had a similar problem on her car and it turned out the problem was the wheel, not the tire. We'd had enough sand and salt on the road this winter that she had corrosion / gunk building up right at the bead. The tire shop dismounted the tires, cleaned up the seating area on the wheel and then remounted the tire. The problem now seems to be solved.


12

It's always been my understanding that it eliminates the water vapor making the heat have less and more predictable effect on tire pressure. Unless you are driving a race car or an airplane I don't think it's worth the trouble IMO I found some more information I have listed and sourced below It's not about the nitrogen. It's about reducing oxygen, ...


11

The power losses in a MT are primarily do to friction. Everything in a MT is positively locked together, meaning there is no slip anywhere. Beyond friction at least one of the rotating assemblies is partially submerged in the gear lube to provide splash lube for everything else. Stirring the fluid looses power. In an automatic everything I just mentioned ...


10

Most lug nuts should be torqued between 75-100 ft-lbs. So applying the appropriate amount of body weight (lean into it really good) should be adequate until you get to somewhere with a proper torque wrench. One thing to note, is that you should always tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern so that you do not damage anything.


10

There are major benefits on a track: you have much lower tire deformation with a low profile tire so you can corner harder. You can also accelerate and brake harder, and your tires get to temperature much faster as there is less rubber to warm up. On a normal road having very low profile tires can be a negative - they don't soak up bumps as well as a higher ...


10

From what I have seen and read over the last few years the "general rule" has become best tires on the rear. In my opinion it is likely the result of litigation by people who were involved in skidding accidents. The theory as far as I understand it, is that with worn tires in the rear, the back end can loose traction and allow the rear of the car to attempt ...


10

Much of what makes wheels appear dirty is brake dust. Brake dust is wear particles from the brake pads and rotors (or from linings and drums, in the case of drum brakes). The braking effort in most vehicles is not equally distributed between front and rear wheels--this is by design. Generally the front wheels do most of the braking work, since weight ...


10

You have severe case of corrosion. The part is called the lower control arm. Its function is to maintain the tire in the correct position. Do not attempt to drive the vehicle. In the best case scenario you will cause more damage, the tire could hit the fender, the axle could separate or you can bend something else. In the worst case you kill someone when ...


9

Naturally, the number of pros that I have available to ask is limited so I'm wondering what a wider audience will say. The nice thing about a question like this is that it isn't up for opinions. The cost / benefit ratios can be measured. Grassroots Motorsports routinely does this sort of analysis. For example, in Speed Holes by Per Schroeder ...


9

The short answer is probably not, but you are creating undue hardship on the internals that will likely lead them to fail earlier than they would otherwise. When you drive your car, you are putting wear and tear on basically everything. Driving your car harder (accelerating quickly, stopping abruptly) just adds to the wear you are putting on it. Even just ...


8

As pointed out by DXM, the 15,16,17 isn't an interchangeable number. None of the first 3 numbers can just be changed individually. With your 205/55R16 example: 205 is the width of the tire in millimeters 55 is the percentage of the width that equals the height of the sidewall (so 205 x .55 = 112.75mm) 16 is the wheel diameter in inches the tire fits on ...


8

Nope, doing it with the wheels on the ground if fine, no need to lift the weight of the wheels. It's easier that way because the wheels can't turn while you are torquing the lugs.


8

The simplest thing to do is to phone the dealership, ask them to give you the part number for the wheel bearing, and then do a google search for that part number, or go to your favourite online shop and enter the part number into the search box. Part numbers are unique to a particular car or range of cars.


8

I second Gabriel's comment: Probably cost. Nickel Moly Chromium Stainless (316) is very expensive, this random kitchen sink is just a sheet of stainless stamped into a cube, and it's $500+ retail. Given the price I have to assume it's 316, otherwise it would be even more. I can only imagine what a single wheel would cost a manufacturer. Even using Powdered ...


8

Largely because it's unnecessary. Steel wheels are so incredibly cheap compared to stainless that there's no benefit. Steel wheels are heavy enough that it takes way beyond the normal life of a car for them to rust out too (I have a 22 year old car that I drive in the winters on original steel wheels and the wheels are in better shape than the car body). ...


8

I've worked at a garage. We use a rubber mallet. Hit it like your doing lug nuts. Hit it, rotate 90*, hit it, rotate 45*, and so on so you are not always hitting on the same spot. We would normally put some grease on the hubs. You can use anti-seize also. I wouldn't worry about water moving it around. It is squished flat in there, and water and ...


7

The 'offset' is the distance between the mounting face of the wheel (i.e. the bit that sits against the hub) and the centreline of the wheel. A positive offset is where the mounting face is towards the outside of the wheel, and negative is set towards the inside. Therefore, if you get wheels that are more positive than the current ones, they will sit ...


7

I think you threw a wheel weight. Let's consider this quote from the great Wikipedia: When the wheel rotates, asymmetries of mass may cause it to hop or wobble, which can cause ride disturbances, usually vertical and lateral vibrations. It can also result in a wobbling of the steering wheel or of the entire vehicle. The ride disturbance, due to ...


7

Yes, you need to have them either changed or fixed. Fixing may cost as much as replacement wheels considering they are steel, but I haven't priced either lately, so getting them trued might be cheaper. The tires probably will not hold air with them the way they are, so you don't have much of a choice. Besides, even if they do, they will thump like a big dog ...


7

There is no relationship between wheel size and turning circle - the turning radius of the vehicle is defined by the geometry of the front suspension, and the wheelbase and overhangs of the vehicle. For example, the traditional London Taxi is famous for having a very small turning circle, as it is designed to cope with very narrow streets. This is achieved ...


7

There are tools available that can do the job without using a press: There are many more. The overall theme is the C-clamp like stile of pressing the bearing in and out. There is an old saying, there is a right tool for the job. These or a press is the right tool. There are other ways but you always run the risk of damaging the bearing, knuckle or both. ...


7

After taking it back to the shop, the mechanic diagnosed it as "the back tire inside rim wheel weights are rubbing" (apparently they didn't rub when those tires were in the front). So rebalance the rear wheels and I'm back in business.


6

You'll need some sort of a tank where you can submerge the entire wheel/tire - a small pool will do, although if you're in the northern hemisphere that might be a bit of a challenge this time of the year. Put the whole wheel underwater, and see if you can spot any bubbles. I have seen some shops that have a tank they can put part of the wheel/tire into, ...


6

That sounds like a job for a torch to heat up the drum and see if you can get it to loosen up. Maybe a piece of wood against the back side of tire/wheel and hitting it with sledge hammer? Of course, do this while taking proper safety measures, jack stands, and restraints. Be very careful and prepare for that moment of the wheel breaking free and the truck ...


6

The choice depends on what you are trying to achieve with new tires and what's important to you. handling? ride comfort? looks? These are the reasons people buy higher size rims: Since you want wheel diameter to stay the same, higher rim size, means tire side wall is thinner. This improves cornering as there's less flex in the tire. At the same time, ...


6

Had a similar problem on an '07 Toyota Tundra, while changing a tire yesterday. Solution we used was to just beat the crap out of it with a rubber mallet, with the wheel in the air after the nuts were removed. And by "beat the crap out of it", I mean exactly that - a "gentle tapping" won't do. Good luck.


6

With just a one foot arm, I don't think you could break the nuts or the wrench. Applying the wrench with your full arm strength should be fine. Then drive the car to a tire-shop or another location that you have a torque wrench to make sure the nuts are in specification.


6

In an ideal world where time plays no issue you would torque all the lug nuts to 1/3 of the reccomended torque in a crisscross pattern. Reset the torque wrench to 2/3 of the torque spec and tighten again in a crisscross pattern. Finally set the wrench to 100% of the torque spec and do the final tightening. After 50 miles recheck the lugs with the wrench set ...


6

It's the backing plate, and that sleeve is part of the axle housing. Also you don't use a hub puller there is a clip in the differential housing that has to be removed. Remove the bolt (1) then the pinion shaft (2) Note the Manufacture says it's a one time bolt, meaning buy a new one, don't reuse the old one. Push the axle in and the c clip will fall ...



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