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16

I had a similar problem with my car a while back. The trick I used was as follows. Loosen the nuts right off, but don't remove them (leaving three or four threads on), so they restrain the wheel when it comes free. Jack the car up and support it solidly on stands - I also put the spare wheel under the sill on the side I am working on. Take a 2-3lb club ...


15

My wife had a similar problem on her car and it turned out the problem was the wheel, not the tire. We'd had enough sand and salt on the road this winter that she had corrosion / gunk building up right at the bead. The tire shop dismounted the tires, cleaned up the seating area on the wheel and then remounted the tire. The problem now seems to be solved.


10

It's always been my understanding that it eliminates the water vapor making the heat have less and more predictable effect on tire pressure. Unless you are driving a race car or an airplane I don't think it's worth the trouble IMO I found some more information I have listed and sourced below It's not about the nitrogen. It's about reducing oxygen, ...


10

Much of what makes wheels appear dirty is brake dust. Brake dust is wear particles from the brake pads and rotors (or from linings and drums, in the case of drum brakes). The braking effort in most vehicles is not equally distributed between front and rear wheels--this is by design. Generally the front wheels do most of the braking work, since weight ...


9

Most lug nuts should be torqued between 75-100 ft-lbs. So applying the appropriate amount of body weight (lean into it really good) should be adequate until you get to somewhere with a proper torque wrench. One thing to note, is that you should always tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern so that you do not damage anything.


8

There are major benefits on a track: you have much lower tire deformation with a low profile tire so you can corner harder. You can also accelerate and brake harder, and your tires get to temperature much faster as there is less rubber to warm up. On a normal road having very low profile tires can be a negative - they don't soak up bumps as well as a higher ...


8

From what I have seen and read over the last few years the "general rule" has become best tires on the rear. In my opinion it is likely the result of litigation by people who were involved in skidding accidents. The theory as far as I understand it, is that with worn tires in the rear, the back end can loose traction and allow the rear of the car to attempt ...


8

I second Gabriel's comment: Probably cost. Nickel Moly Chromium Stainless (316) is very expensive, this random kitchen sink is just a sheet of stainless stamped into a cube, and it's $500+ retail. Given the price I have to assume it's 316, otherwise it would be even more. I can only imagine what a single wheel would cost a manufacturer. Even using Powdered ...


8

Largely because it's unnecessary. Steel wheels are so incredibly cheap compared to stainless that there's no benefit. Steel wheels are heavy enough that it takes way beyond the normal life of a car for them to rust out too (I have a 22 year old car that I drive in the winters on original steel wheels and the wheels are in better shape than the car body). ...


7

The 'offset' is the distance between the mounting face of the wheel (i.e. the bit that sits against the hub) and the centreline of the wheel. A positive offset is where the mounting face is towards the outside of the wheel, and negative is set towards the inside. Therefore, if you get wheels that are more positive than the current ones, they will sit ...


7

Nope, doing it with the wheels on the ground if fine, no need to lift the weight of the wheels. It's easier that way because the wheels can't turn while you are torquing the lugs.


6

Naturally, the number of pros that I have available to ask is limited so I'm wondering what a wider audience will say. The nice thing about a question like this is that it isn't up for opinions. The cost / benefit ratios can be measured. Grassroots Motorsports routinely does this sort of analysis. For example, in Speed Holes by Per Schroeder ...


6

Had a similar problem on an '07 Toyota Tundra, while changing a tire yesterday. Solution we used was to just beat the crap out of it with a rubber mallet, with the wheel in the air after the nuts were removed. And by "beat the crap out of it", I mean exactly that - a "gentle tapping" won't do. Good luck.


6

I think you threw a wheel weight. Let's consider this quote from the great Wikipedia: When the wheel rotates, asymmetries of mass may cause it to hop or wobble, which can cause ride disturbances, usually vertical and lateral vibrations. It can also result in a wobbling of the steering wheel or of the entire vehicle. The ride disturbance, due to ...


6

Yes, you need to have them either changed or fixed. Fixing may cost as much as replacement wheels considering they are steel, but I haven't priced either lately, so getting them trued might be cheaper. The tires probably will not hold air with them the way they are, so you don't have much of a choice. Besides, even if they do, they will thump like a big dog ...


6

First is to soak them with a good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or Sea Foam. If you have access to an impact wrench, electric might work but pneumatics tend to have more torque. If you don't own one consider renting one or purchasing one from a store with a liberal return policy. If that is out of the question slide a pipe, crow bar, large ...


5

Another way is to jack up (and support) the car, then attempt to shake the wheel. Hold it at top and bottom and try and shake it vertically, then repeat horizontally. There should be very little, if any, play in it. As Dude318is says, a grainy feeling when rotating is another way to tell.


5

Easy way to check is remove each wheel, and rotate the disc. If you can remove the disc as well to get closer to the hub that would be even better. If the bearing rotates but not smoothly (i.e. having a sandy/grainy feeling) then that is likely the culprit. This is how I was able to track down a worn rear wheel bearing on my car.


5

You could probably try spraying some PB blaster around where the wheel meets the drum. If you come back every hour (three to four applications should do the trick) to respray the area I bet you that stuff will probably works its way through whatever is keeping it seized on...more than likely rust. Just make sure to let it sit overnight!


5

As pointed out by DXM, the 15,16,17 isn't an interchangeable number. None of the first 3 numbers can just be changed individually. With your 205/55R16 example: 205 is the width of the tire in millimeters 55 is the percentage of the width that equals the height of the sidewall (so 205 x .55 = 112.75mm) 16 is the wheel diameter in inches the tire fits on ...


5

With just a one foot arm, I don't think you could break the nuts or the wrench. Applying the wrench with your full arm strength should be fine. Then drive the car to a tire-shop or another location that you have a torque wrench to make sure the nuts are in specification.


5

You probably have a wheel out of balance and it's difficult to determine that without putting the tires on a balancer. One thing you could try would be to jack up the car and put pencil on a stationary object like a brick or a board move the pencil so it almost touches the wheel, spin the tire and look for the rim moving in and out in reference with the ...


5

I would say that it is most likely a balancing issue. In order to find out, I would: Use the car's jack to clear each front wheel from the ground. Give the wheel a spin and check to see that the spinning tire does not vibrate (sideways and/or up-and-down). This could indicate a damaged rim or a damaged tire. If pt. 1 does not give any indication, unmount ...


5

That sounds like a job for a torch to heat up the drum and see if you can get it to loosen up. Maybe a piece of wood against the back side of tire/wheel and hitting it with sledge hammer? Of course, do this while taking proper safety measures, jack stands, and restraints. Be very careful and prepare for that moment of the wheel breaking free and the truck ...


5

Unfortunately wheels will get dirty first - they are closest to the ground so will pick up everything; they also pick up brake dust, which is very sticky. This means there is no silver bullet here - you need to wash frequently, and apply a wax if you want to slow down the build up of crud. Use a wheel cleaner solution to dissolve the worst grime and combat ...


5

In an ideal world where time plays no issue you would torque all the lug nuts to 1/3 of the reccomended torque in a crisscross pattern. Reset the torque wrench to 2/3 of the torque spec and tighten again in a crisscross pattern. Finally set the wrench to 100% of the torque spec and do the final tightening. After 50 miles recheck the lugs with the wrench set ...


5

Sly's technique is a good one for diagnosing leaks, but you may find it difficult to spot if the leak is too small. If you have a persistent leak on one particular wheel, it may be that there is some corrosion or foreign particle contamination on the inside of the wheel rim - this prevents the tyre from sealing properly against the rim and allows the air to ...


5

First, I have to compliment your stamina. I doubt I'd be able to keep swinging a mallet for two whole weeks. Soak the area in a good penetrating oil. I like Wurth's Rost Off, but there are many choices. Hit it with penetrating oil once or twice a day for a while. Give it a few whacks with a mallet, if it doesn't loosen up, hit it with more penetrating oil, ...


5

It's the backing plate, and that sleeve is part of the axle housing. Also you don't use a hub puller there is a clip in the differential housing that has to be removed. Remove the bolt (1) then the pinion shaft (2) Note the Manufacture says it's a one time bolt, meaning buy a new one, don't reuse the old one. Push the axle in and the c clip will fall ...


5

It's hard to tell from your pictures, but I don't believe there is a spacer there. In the second picture, what you are showing appears to be the "hat" of the disk brake. Also, from the sound of it, the other link you posted is talking about a centering ring. That ring would not be visible while the wheel is attached. I believe the only way you are going to ...



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