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2

I'd suggest one of your relays has gone astray. You can test this fairly easily by swapping out relays, if they are the same. Just remember which order you have them in originally, and exchange them one for another. This will help you determine which relay is bad and should also allow you to get the top back up for the meantime. It could very well be the ...


0

The VW diesel engine controls that I'm familiar with (ALH and BEW mostly) are drive-by-wire and the throttle position will be at 0% at idle. You may have a different controller, but I wouldn't expect the throttle position to be much different. The ECU is responsible for managing the idle speed and doesn't need throttle input to do that, hence the 0% (driver ...


2

I am not familiar with G12 coolant, as it seems to be VW/Audi specific, but mixing incompatible coolants will cause precipitation ("sludge") within your cooling system, which will cause blockage. G12 coolant comes in a variety of colours, read more here. What you can do is remove a small quantity of your coolant (use a turkey baster), place it in a clean ...


1

If your TDI is a PD type then you're better off erring on the short/fast side. There were many cases of prematurely worn out cams on PDs due to oil. This means sticking to the oil norm and change interval specified by VW. If the engine is a non-PD TDI (such as ALH, AFN etc.) then you could try using oil analyzer (such as lubricheck) in order to determine ...


2

It's called a coolant flange. Not totally familiar your your engine but there is usually two of them mounted to the engine. They are made out of plastic and are prone to cracking. I had to replace one last year on my Golf. As the others have said, be sure to get an OEM part since this is not very expensive and the OEM part should last a lot longer than a ...


0

You can rev it up and see if the vane boosts it to 100% at any moment. If not, it's a ECU not allowing to reach the pressure. So the issue is somewhere before your turbo, like detonation, pre-ignition... If it doesn't open a boost fully, you should see your Lambda sensor readings. Do you have knock sensors? Is the smoke white or black? If the smoke ...


5

Some thoughts on how to verify if you have... an intake obstruction Disconnect the air filter (keep the MAF in place) to expose the compressor inlet and log boost values with the car at idle and under load. If the boost numbers are close to what the engine computer is expecting then this would confirm that something upstream the MAF is obstructing the ...


1

The B+ wire is likely alright if you noticed it on time, but the problem is due to the drained battery and the bad connection around the fuse. If it was the wrong gauge or something, it wouldn't melt around the fuse but likely elsewhere or wouldn't provide enough current to cause any damage. This happened to me on 2002 Beetle a week ago. After my alternator ...


1

You need a 65 Amps, 125 mm Stator Diameter, 12 V alternator. The exact one is mentioned in the link: VW Rabbit 1.6 Non AC alternator


2

It appears the following are rebuilt replacements for your alternator: WPS/Power Select PN: 14970N Pure Energy PN: 14778 Remy PN: 14918 The difference (it appears) between the AC to non-AC unit is the Amperage output: AC=90A; non-AC=65A. You will probably want to get a replacement alternator which has the capacitor (externally connected part as you've ...


7

tl;dr: it's really called a coolant flange. I had also never heard of a coolant flange but it turns out that it's a real part and, based on the video, it's a part that fails around 120K miles (which sounds reasonable for the age of your vehicle. An example of a coolant flange repair. Some examples of coolant flanges (which seem to be common for Audis and ...


0

You might find this post about Dynamic EGR Control for TDIs on the TDI Club forums by Mark at Malone Tuning interesting. Mark reports on his experiments with the EGR system on a 2006 TDI. He reports that the stock EGR settings resulted in a faster warm up (less wear on the engine) and better fuel economy than he got with the EGR deleted or dialed back. The ...


0

So it sounds like VW uses three different kinds of "always replace" bolts: Torque-to-yield (TTY or T2Y) bolts which must be replaced because they are engineered for one-time use. Reuse of these is risking failure, Bolts treated for corrosion resistance (often with a green color), these are being replaced to ensure that the corrosion resistance is not ...


1

For what it might be worth, we have a pair of Jetta Mk4 TDIs one with the ALH engine, the other with a BEW. Both are well over 200,000 miles (the ALH is pushing 300,000) and for the most part we do our own maintenance, using a local shop for thorny diagnostic issues and when specialized tools or a lift are required. Over about 200,000 miles the ALH has run ...


3

The actual reason to replace the bolts isn't specifically the bolts, it's the nuts. These are self locking (i.e. Nyloc) style nuts and after they've been removed and refitted, you can't be sure that they'll self-lock effectively. When purchasing a new balljoint, replacements for these are almost always provided. Your local dealership should charge you no ...


4

The other question I'd love an answer to is why are the bolts "always replace." Does the torquing process (20 Nm + 90º) weaken the bolt, or is it not reproducible? Or something else altogether? For a conventional bolt, ignoring the torque required to overcome friction when you tighten it, there is a linear relation between the amount of torque and the ...


7

I cannot tell you directly if the bolts you are using are Torque to Yield (TTY or T2Y) bolts, but if Bently says to replace them, you bet I'd do it. What are three bolts in comparison to the well being of your family and yourself, not to mention those around you should any of these bolts fail? As for T2Y bolts, here is what Fel-Pro says about them: T-T-...


0

White smoke from a diesel is normally an indication that combustion isn't reaching full temperature, but I'm confused that it's coming from the centre of the car,with the engine running is there full flow coming from the tail pipe of the exhaust ?



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