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11

It is highly probable that the reason your car was reluctant to start was that the time you were running diagnostics had sapped some of the charge from the battery. The battery on the car will not charge unless the engine is running. It is unlikely that this device would harm your vehicle but it is theoretically (and practically) possible to do temporary ...


9

Looks like part of the muffler to me. You should have it replaced it could end up obstructing the exhaust.


8

I recently had a similar problem where I got intermittent "Immobilizer" messages. According to my mechanic (20+ years of Volvo experience) the connector between the antenna ring and the wiring harness sometimes causes problems - taking it off, spraying it with contact cleaner, and re-seating it fixes these. It could be that the vibrations from hitting the ...


6

To my knowledge there is no way a scanner can cause issues with your computer electronics. This device is a read only device. It doesn't change anything in your computer. It does, however, communicate with the computer. Through this communication it can give the computer commands, such as to clear the codes. This doesn't write anything to the computer, but ...


5

That is usually caused by a tired ancilliary belt (the one that drives the alternator etc) - as the rubber ages, it grips less well and slips more against the pulleys, especially when cold and damp. After a couple of minutes it dries out and warms up, and so stops slipping. The timing belt itself is toothed, and so cannot slip (it would cause a catastrophic ...


5

The injector has a plunger/pintle which is controlled by an electromagnet. The humming you heard is from that. The plunger/pintle has a spring which pushes back against the electromagnet so when the power is shut off, the plunger will close and stop the flow of fuel. This causes the hum. Here is an example of how an injector is built: When the power is ...


4

There are four possible culprits: The vehicle speed sensor which plugs into the back of the differential The wiring from the speed sensor to the back of the instrument panel The printed circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster The speedometer itself As always with electrical problems, test the simplest/cheapest component first. In this case, ...


4

One answer is simply to wait - according to the manual, after 5 hours the immobilizer will reset, and in fact the next morning the car started fine. I took it into a independent Volvo shop today, and was told that the connection on the antenna ring sometimes goes bad, but the ring itself rarely needs to be replaced - taking off the connector and spraying ...


4

Firstly, I'm going to asume the bodyshell is sound, as there is no point doing anything if it is rotten (and Volvos of that age can rot very badly) - You'd end up spending hundreds on getting it welded back together... I'll give an idea of prices in Sterling, obviously costs vary depending on where you are... Suspension Creaks and groans are often a ...


4

You have a flat battery - use either a charger or a jump-start from another car (there are plenty of questions on here and guides elsewhere as to how to jump start) to charge the battery.


4

What you are describing is generally caused by the door lock actuators wearing out. It's common on a lot of cars once they get some age on them. They are usually available aftermarket, and some can be a pain to swap out.


4

I found pretty good video about changing the muffler here. As Larry said, it is not the catalysator but the part before the catalysator. It looks like something that even an amateur is able to do. In Finland, the cost is about 60EUR for the part so not expensive part. (source of the image) Terminology muffler = äänenvaimentimet, takapönttö ...


4

To answer your questions, if there is a real leak, then yes, there is a problem. The oil will cause the belt to deteriorate and possibly slip. When it does, it is catastrophic. Pistons slam against valves and the head is toast (in most cases). This does happen suddenly. Get a different shop to look at it. If the belt appears dry, I would bet there isn't an ...


4

The most common reason for this is getting skin oil onto the bulb during changing of the bulb. This will kill most every bulb on the market today. This creates hot spots on the bulb which will cause the filaments to burn out at an accelerated rate. If you aren't already, use clean, new, nitrile gloves to keep the oil off. If you don't have nitrile gloves, ...


4

No. The tool in and of itself cannot do any "harm" to the vehicle. If you were testing apps with the engine off, it is quite possible that the battery may have drained to the extent that it gave some hiccups while starting. Low fuel level may also be to blame here. However, If the vehicle has error codes present which are cleared with the tool, the ...


3

Most likely cause - the stalk switch is faulty, and rather than moving through the three different positions it just closes the high speed circuit. You should be able to replace the stalk switch easily and cheaply - find one at a breaker's yard.


3

I've owned several FWD cars and the clicking, especially while turning or accelerating, is a pretty sure sign of a CV (constant velocity) joint going. So if your mechanic told you "joints," +1 to that. Further info: You can usually drive a ways (5000mi/8000km) before the sound becomes unbearable. I never got past the clicking phase, but I'm told you ...


3

First step, remove, clean and reinstall the battery terminals. Check the fluid level in the battery (if possible) Slow charge the battery on the lowest setting (not the "maintain" setting) overnight. See my answer here for more information on how to check the battery.


3

I'd be very concerned. It sounds like the wastegate may possibly be stuck closed, preventing it from bleeding excess pressure, which would allow the car to overboost. Higher than normal boost will provide better performance, but is likely to do engine damage unless the car has been otherwise modified to accept the higher boost. Some cars have overboost ...


3

Having owned several of that generation Volvo ('93 965, '94 964, '94 965), I will start by saying "The US delivery Volvo headlights of that era are terrible!" The light does not go where it needs to go, and even adding more light will not help that much. I have had some success putting the Sylvania XS bulbs in. They have a slightly different spectrum from ...


3

Old, tired wiring will often cause dim headlamps as halogen bulbs are very sensitive to low voltages. As Jaime says, a lot of older cars didn't have relayed headlamps (although I would have expected Volvo to do so), so if you've not got them, the full current for the lamps is runnning through the entire wiring system. The best way to test this is to check ...


3

Before you go off to the Stealership to have the bulb replaced, you may want to see if the bulb has lost connectivity at the plug. Since these are LED bulbs, they don't go bad very often or very fast. I believe you should be able to access the plug by removing the main headlight in your car. While this video shows you how to remove the main headlight, it's a ...


3

Exhausts inside the car is not healthy at all. As someone said, perhaps another mechanic should be considered. As to the problem, it sounds like the exhaust pipe is leaking before the catalytic converter. The engine light would likely light up because of this, since the Lambda (Oxygen) sensor in the converter would be receiving less exhausts (and more ...


2

I don't know why he would beat on your car, as the problem will likely just return. The problem likely lies in one of these places: The tag in the key itself (RFID) read by the computers, the ring that provides the field required to read the tag, or the computer that recognizes the tag. Beating it fixes nothing.


2

The 92's are known for their speedometer failures. I bought a replacement speedometer from www.techbargains.com. Kinda. It's made by Garmin, and when I put it on the dashboard it tells me how fast I'm going. And where I'm at, and what direction I'm going, as well as my elevation from sea level. AND I can enter an address and it tells me how to get there. ...


2

If you had given that description without the screwdriver part, it would sound to me like your car is one of those that has a chip in the key where not just any key matching the physical cut will work, it has to be in combination with the car reading the chip. The goal being more security to keep someone from getting a hold of your key and making a copy of ...


2

Have the lenses become cloudy? This can happen over time and you can buy kits to polish and clear them up. If they're not cloudy, check how many volts are getting to the lights themselves with a volt meter. I'm not sure how the circuit in your car works, but if it doesn't use relays to power the lights, your light switch can be absorbing some of the power.


2

I'd recommend you take care of the known issues before you waste too much time diagnosing this noise. The other issues could very well be causing the sound. Worn joints frequently cause clicking sounds.


2

Odds are high that the power steering rack itself is leaking. Start looking around there. Doesn't take a big leak, may not be any obvious spots left under the car.


2

Did he say why you needed new lower control arms? Usually the bushings just need to be replaced not the entire control arm. If he was talking about the CV joints needing to be replaced, they have seals and rubber boots that cover them. If the rubber boots or seals have cracked due to being old, it could let the grease escape from the CV joint. Then as the ...



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