Hot answers tagged

14

It is highly probable that the reason your car was reluctant to start was that the time you were running diagnostics had sapped some of the charge from the battery. The battery on the car will not charge unless the engine is running. It is unlikely that this device would harm your vehicle but it is theoretically (and practically) possible to do temporary ...


10

I recently had a similar problem where I got intermittent "Immobilizer" messages. According to my mechanic (20+ years of Volvo experience) the connector between the antenna ring and the wiring harness sometimes causes problems - taking it off, spraying it with contact cleaner, and re-seating it fixes these. It could be that the vibrations from hitting the ...


9

Looks like part of the muffler to me. You should have it replaced it could end up obstructing the exhaust.


7

To my knowledge there is no way a scanner can cause issues with your computer electronics. This device is a read only device. It doesn't change anything in your computer. It does, however, communicate with the computer. Through this communication it can give the computer commands, such as to clear the codes. This doesn't write anything to the computer, but ...


6

The injector has a plunger/pintle which is controlled by an electromagnet. The humming you heard is from that. The plunger/pintle has a spring which pushes back against the electromagnet so when the power is shut off, the plunger will close and stop the flow of fuel. This causes the hum. Here is an example of how an injector is built: When the power is ...


5

There are four possible culprits: The vehicle speed sensor which plugs into the back of the differential The wiring from the speed sensor to the back of the instrument panel The printed circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster The speedometer itself As always with electrical problems, test the simplest/cheapest component first. In this case, ...


5

The Engine System Service Required is a service interval indicator. The engine check light coming on will mean you have a fault. You can simply re-set the Engine System Service Required by carrying out a simply re-set. Button A is located at the bottom and to the left of your speedo. Ensure all doors are closed, Turn the ignition key to position 1(...


5

That is usually caused by a tired ancilliary belt (the one that drives the alternator etc) - as the rubber ages, it grips less well and slips more against the pulleys, especially when cold and damp. After a couple of minutes it dries out and warms up, and so stops slipping. The timing belt itself is toothed, and so cannot slip (it would cause a catastrophic ...


4

One answer is simply to wait - according to the manual, after 5 hours the immobilizer will reset, and in fact the next morning the car started fine. I took it into a independent Volvo shop today, and was told that the connection on the antenna ring sometimes goes bad, but the ring itself rarely needs to be replaced - taking off the connector and spraying ...


4

Old, tired wiring will often cause dim headlamps as halogen bulbs are very sensitive to low voltages. As Jaime says, a lot of older cars didn't have relayed headlamps (although I would have expected Volvo to do so), so if you've not got them, the full current for the lamps is runnning through the entire wiring system. The best way to test this is to check ...


4

Firstly, I'm going to asume the bodyshell is sound, as there is no point doing anything if it is rotten (and Volvos of that age can rot very badly) - You'd end up spending hundreds on getting it welded back together... I'll give an idea of prices in Sterling, obviously costs vary depending on where you are... Suspension Creaks and groans are often a ...


4

I'd be very concerned. It sounds like the wastegate may possibly be stuck closed, preventing it from bleeding excess pressure, which would allow the car to overboost. Higher than normal boost will provide better performance, but is likely to do engine damage unless the car has been otherwise modified to accept the higher boost. Some cars have overboost ...


4

You have a flat battery - use either a charger or a jump-start from another car (there are plenty of questions on here and guides elsewhere as to how to jump start) to charge the battery.


4

What you are describing is generally caused by the door lock actuators wearing out. It's common on a lot of cars once they get some age on them. They are usually available aftermarket, and some can be a pain to swap out.


4

I found pretty good video about changing the muffler here. As Larry said, it is not the catalysator but the part before the catalysator. It looks like something that even an amateur is able to do. In Finland, the cost is about 60EUR for the part so not expensive part. (source of the image) Terminology muffler = äänenvaimentimet, takapönttö (...


4

To answer your questions, if there is a real leak, then yes, there is a problem. The oil will cause the belt to deteriorate and possibly slip. When it does, it is catastrophic. Pistons slam against valves and the head is toast (in most cases). This does happen suddenly. Get a different shop to look at it. If the belt appears dry, I would bet there isn't an ...


4

The most common reason for this is getting skin oil onto the bulb during changing of the bulb. This will kill most every bulb on the market today. This creates hot spots on the bulb which will cause the filaments to burn out at an accelerated rate. If you aren't already, use clean, new, nitrile gloves to keep the oil off. If you don't have nitrile gloves, ...


4

No. The tool in and of itself cannot do any "harm" to the vehicle. If you were testing apps with the engine off, it is quite possible that the battery may have drained to the extent that it gave some hiccups while starting. Low fuel level may also be to blame here. However, If the vehicle has error codes present which are cleared with the tool, the ...


4

One of my tires will need replacing soon as well as it is almost at the legal limit. I have a good amount of tread left on my front two tires. I am going to replace all four tires as soon as the worst one is due for a replacement. I want to clarify that you should never replace only one tire on an axle, you must always replace them in pairs at least ...


4

Putting your best tires up front is the exact opposite of what every tire shop I've ever been to in the US will do. You should not put your best tires in the front unless you never drive in adverse conditions like rain or snow. This popular mechanics article sums it up pretty well: The truth: Rear tires provide stability, and without stability, ...


4

Regular service and fixing what's broken will keep just about any car running for a long time. The main difference with driving shot distances, is that your engine spends more time at less than optimal temperature. This is not as big a deal with modern fuel injection engines, but parts may still wear out faster than vehicles with mostly 'highway miles.' ...


3

Having owned several of that generation Volvo ('93 965, '94 964, '94 965), I will start by saying "The US delivery Volvo headlights of that era are terrible!" The light does not go where it needs to go, and even adding more light will not help that much. I have had some success putting the Sylvania XS bulbs in. They have a slightly different spectrum from ...


3

I've owned several FWD cars and the clicking, especially while turning or accelerating, is a pretty sure sign of a CV (constant velocity) joint going. So if your mechanic told you "joints," +1 to that. Further info: You can usually drive a ways (5000mi/8000km) before the sound becomes unbearable. I never got past the clicking phase, but I'm told you ...


3

First step, remove, clean and reinstall the battery terminals. Check the fluid level in the battery (if possible) Slow charge the battery on the lowest setting (not the "maintain" setting) overnight. See my answer here for more information on how to check the battery.


3

Most likely cause - the stalk switch is faulty, and rather than moving through the three different positions it just closes the high speed circuit. You should be able to replace the stalk switch easily and cheaply - find one at a breaker's yard.


3

It's probably the dimmer. To the left of the instrument cluster, next to the driver's side air vent, is a light dimmer slider. When they get old, they get finicky and the car thinks you have the dimmer set to "0" when they malfunction, so it thinks you want to turn off all the instrument lights. The problem is the slider mechanism which is these 3 tiny ...


3

The cheapest, easiest thing you can try is to disconnect your battery for 30 minutes (check your owner's manual for the proper way of doing this). When you connect the battery again, your electric windows would have reset their soft limits (so called because the SOFTware learns what "fully open" and "fully closed" "feels" like). You'll notice that your ...


3

If when you shift gear and release the clutch you feel the engine reving up without the car actually accelerating, probably the clutch is worn or very old/used. (this goes for manual gearbox)


3

Before you go off to the Stealership to have the bulb replaced, you may want to see if the bulb has lost connectivity at the plug. Since these are LED bulbs, they don't go bad very often or very fast. I believe you should be able to access the plug by removing the main headlight in your car. While this video shows you how to remove the main headlight, it's a ...


3

Exhausts inside the car is not healthy at all. As someone said, perhaps another mechanic should be considered. As to the problem, it sounds like the exhaust pipe is leaking before the catalytic converter. The engine light would likely light up because of this, since the Lambda (Oxygen) sensor in the converter would be receiving less exhausts (and more ...



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