Hot answers tagged

39

That sounds very risky to me. The portions of the plugs that reside in the combustion chamber are designed to tolerate the heat and pressure there. I don't think they will melt. So what will happen is that those parts are likely to remain in the cylinder and may get caught between the top of the piston and the head and/or valves. That is likely to do more ...


29

Do NOT drive a car with a piece of sparkplug inside the engine. It can (and likely will) lead to serious damage (up to a catastrophic engine failure). Get your car towed to a service and have the pieces of the broken plug removed. Additionally, get the oil changed (probably with a flush too, to remove all the debris). You will have to spend some money on ...


22

That's a nice car - don't be a consumer and break it because you're too lazy to fix it properly. Sadly the "proper" fix is to tow it to your mechanic, who will take the head off and fish out the broken pieces. He'll also check the head and valves for damage while its off, and make a recommendation. An old engine idling at low speed might happily burp out ...


16

It is highly probable that the reason your car was reluctant to start was that the time you were running diagnostics had sapped some of the charge from the battery. The battery on the car will not charge unless the engine is running. It is unlikely that this device would harm your vehicle but it is theoretically (and practically) possible to do temporary ...


16

If this happened during a plug change If you have roadside assistance/towing, I would highly recommend getting it towed home, then purchase a cheap USB inspection camera or a inspection unit like this one from Harbor Freight and look inside the spark plug hole to see if there is any remnants of the plug and any trauma to the exhaust value. If it ...


10

I recently had a similar problem where I got intermittent "Immobilizer" messages. According to my mechanic (20+ years of Volvo experience) the connector between the antenna ring and the wiring harness sometimes causes problems - taking it off, spraying it with contact cleaner, and re-seating it fixes these. It could be that the vibrations from hitting the ...


9

Looks like part of the muffler to me. You should have it replaced it could end up obstructing the exhaust.


8

To my knowledge there is no way a scanner can cause issues with your computer electronics. This device is a read only device. It doesn't change anything in your computer. It does, however, communicate with the computer. Through this communication it can give the computer commands, such as to clear the codes. This doesn't write anything to the computer, but ...


8

No question - running the engine will break it. If you're "unlucky", there's enough clearance between the piston and the valves to fit the spark plug. In that case you'll have the spark plug rattling around inside the cylinder. In approximate order, this will first destroy the valves which will not seal properly when their edges and seat faces get damaged,...


6

The injector has a plunger/pintle which is controlled by an electromagnet. The humming you heard is from that. The plunger/pintle has a spring which pushes back against the electromagnet so when the power is shut off, the plunger will close and stop the flow of fuel. This causes the hum. Here is an example of how an injector is built: When the power is ...


5

I'd be very concerned. It sounds like the wastegate may possibly be stuck closed, preventing it from bleeding excess pressure, which would allow the car to overboost. Higher than normal boost will provide better performance, but is likely to do engine damage unless the car has been otherwise modified to accept the higher boost. Some cars have overboost ...


5

Old, tired wiring will often cause dim headlamps as halogen bulbs are very sensitive to low voltages. As Jaime says, a lot of older cars didn't have relayed headlamps (although I would have expected Volvo to do so), so if you've not got them, the full current for the lamps is runnning through the entire wiring system. The best way to test this is to check ...


5

There are four possible culprits: The vehicle speed sensor which plugs into the back of the differential The wiring from the speed sensor to the back of the instrument panel The printed circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster The speedometer itself As always with electrical problems, test the simplest/cheapest component first. In this case, ...


5

The Engine System Service Required is a service interval indicator. The engine check light coming on will mean you have a fault. You can simply re-set the Engine System Service Required by carrying out a simply re-set. Button A is located at the bottom and to the left of your speedo. Ensure all doors are closed, Turn the ignition key to position 1(...


5

That is usually caused by a tired ancilliary belt (the one that drives the alternator etc) - as the rubber ages, it grips less well and slips more against the pulleys, especially when cold and damp. After a couple of minutes it dries out and warms up, and so stops slipping. The timing belt itself is toothed, and so cannot slip (it would cause a catastrophic ...


5

To answer your questions, if there is a real leak, then yes, there is a problem. The oil will cause the belt to deteriorate and possibly slip. When it does, it is catastrophic. Pistons slam against valves and the head is toast (in most cases). This does happen suddenly. Get a different shop to look at it. If the belt appears dry, I would bet there isn't an ...


5

No. The tool in and of itself cannot do any "harm" to the vehicle. If you were testing apps with the engine off, it is quite possible that the battery may have drained to the extent that it gave some hiccups while starting. Low fuel level may also be to blame here. However, If the vehicle has error codes present which are cleared with the tool, the ...


5

Regular service and fixing what's broken will keep just about any car running for a long time. The main difference with driving shot distances, is that your engine spends more time at less than optimal temperature. This is not as big a deal with modern fuel injection engines, but parts may still wear out faster than vehicles with mostly 'highway miles.' ...


4

One answer is simply to wait - according to the manual, after 5 hours the immobilizer will reset, and in fact the next morning the car started fine. I took it into a independent Volvo shop today, and was told that the connection on the antenna ring sometimes goes bad, but the ring itself rarely needs to be replaced - taking off the connector and spraying ...


4

Having owned several of that generation Volvo ('93 965, '94 964, '94 965), I will start by saying "The US delivery Volvo headlights of that era are terrible!" The light does not go where it needs to go, and even adding more light will not help that much. I have had some success putting the Sylvania XS bulbs in. They have a slightly different spectrum from ...


4

Firstly, I'm going to asume the bodyshell is sound, as there is no point doing anything if it is rotten (and Volvos of that age can rot very badly) - You'd end up spending hundreds on getting it welded back together... I'll give an idea of prices in Sterling, obviously costs vary depending on where you are... Suspension Creaks and groans are often a ...


4

You have a flat battery - use either a charger or a jump-start from another car (there are plenty of questions on here and guides elsewhere as to how to jump start) to charge the battery.


4

What you are describing is generally caused by the door lock actuators wearing out. It's common on a lot of cars once they get some age on them. They are usually available aftermarket, and some can be a pain to swap out.


4

I found pretty good video about changing the muffler here. As Larry said, it is not the catalysator but the part before the catalysator. It looks like something that even an amateur is able to do. In Finland, the cost is about 60EUR for the part so not expensive part. (source of the image) Terminology muffler = äänenvaimentimet, takapönttö (...


4

The most common reason for this is getting skin oil onto the bulb during changing of the bulb. This will kill most every bulb on the market today. This creates hot spots on the bulb which will cause the filaments to burn out at an accelerated rate. If you aren't already, use clean, new, nitrile gloves to keep the oil off. If you don't have nitrile gloves, ...


4

One of my tires will need replacing soon as well as it is almost at the legal limit. I have a good amount of tread left on my front two tires. I am going to replace all four tires as soon as the worst one is due for a replacement. I want to clarify that you should never replace only one tire on an axle, you must always replace them in pairs at least ...


4

Putting your best tires up front is the exact opposite of what every tire shop I've ever been to in the US will do. You should not put your best tires in the front unless you never drive in adverse conditions like rain or snow. This popular mechanics article sums it up pretty well: The truth: Rear tires provide stability, and without stability, ...


4

I've seen this before on a Zetec Ford Focus Estate. The noise of the engine running with a missing plug made it sound like a lawn mower. Whilst the car could theoretically have been driven a very short distance (i.e. to move it out of danger, not 20+ miles) we decided that it wasn't worth the risk to try and move it under it's own power and towed it with ...


3

I've owned several FWD cars and the clicking, especially while turning or accelerating, is a pretty sure sign of a CV (constant velocity) joint going. So if your mechanic told you "joints," +1 to that. Further info: You can usually drive a ways (5000mi/8000km) before the sound becomes unbearable. I never got past the clicking phase, but I'm told you ...


3

In my humble opinion, the mold could have gotten into the ducts, and you have 2 options: New Car New Ducts They can clean the evaporator and other parts, but if its in the ducts it might keep coming back if they don't get rid of it all.



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible