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7

I recently had a similar problem where I got intermittent "Immobilizer" messages. According to my mechanic (20+ years of Volvo experience) the connector between the antenna ring and the wiring harness sometimes causes problems - taking it off, spraying it with contact cleaner, and re-seating it fixes these. It could be that the vibrations from hitting the ...


5

That is usually caused by a tired ancilliary belt (the one that drives the alternator etc) - as the rubber ages, it grips less well and slips more against the pulleys, especially when cold and damp. After a couple of minutes it dries out and warms up, and so stops slipping. The timing belt itself is toothed, and so cannot slip (it would cause a catastrophic ...


4

There are four possible culprits: The vehicle speed sensor which plugs into the back of the differential The wiring from the speed sensor to the back of the instrument panel The printed circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster The speedometer itself As always with electrical problems, test the simplest/cheapest component first. In this case, ...


4

One answer is simply to wait - according to the manual, after 5 hours the immobilizer will reset, and in fact the next morning the car started fine. I took it into a independent Volvo shop today, and was told that the connection on the antenna ring sometimes goes bad, but the ring itself rarely needs to be replaced - taking off the connector and spraying ...


4

Firstly, I'm going to asume the bodyshell is sound, as there is no point doing anything if it is rotten (and Volvos of that age can rot very badly) - You'd end up spending hundreds on getting it welded back together... I'll give an idea of prices in Sterling, obviously costs vary depending on where you are... Suspension Creaks and groans are often a ...


3

I've owned several FWD cars and the clicking, especially while turning or accelerating, is a pretty sure sign of a CV (constant velocity) joint going. So if your mechanic told you "joints," +1 to that. Further info: You can usually drive a ways (5000mi/8000km) before the sound becomes unbearable. I never got past the clicking phase, but I'm told you ...


3

Having owned several of that generation Volvo ('93 965, '94 964, '94 965), I will start by saying "The US delivery Volvo headlights of that era are terrible!" The light does not go where it needs to go, and even adding more light will not help that much. I have had some success putting the Sylvania XS bulbs in. They have a slightly different spectrum from ...


3

I'd be very concerned. It sounds like the wastegate may possibly be stuck closed, preventing it from bleeding excess pressure, which would allow the car to overboost. Higher than normal boost will provide better performance, but is likely to do engine damage unless the car has been otherwise modified to accept the higher boost. Some cars have overboost ...


3

First step, remove, clean and reinstall the battery terminals. Check the fluid level in the battery (if possible) Slow charge the battery on the lowest setting (not the "maintain" setting) overnight. See my answer here for more information on how to check the battery.


2

The 92's are known for their speedometer failures. I bought a replacement speedometer from www.techbargains.com. Kinda. It's made by Garmin, and when I put it on the dashboard it tells me how fast I'm going. And where I'm at, and what direction I'm going, as well as my elevation from sea level. AND I can enter an address and it tells me how to get there. ...


2

The solution I found was using GROM Audio (http://www.gromaudio.com/) and bought their iPhone package. Got it installed in 10 min or so, quite simple. However, sometimes I have to power on and off the radio a few times for the Grom audio box to understand it is connected. Tutorials can be found on their website!


2

Might be the CEM, if it has anything to do with the instrument cluster. Might just be the wiring, as was the case here. Though not being able to flash your powertrain controller due to the key position seems to point to the ignition cylinder or some of the wiring to it. If you really do have a CEM fault, you can see if you can find a wholesale source ...


2

If you had given that description without the screwdriver part, it would sound to me like your car is one of those that has a chip in the key where not just any key matching the physical cut will work, it has to be in combination with the car reading the chip. The goal being more security to keep someone from getting a hold of your key and making a copy of ...


2

Old, tired wiring will often cause dim headlamps as halogen bulbs are very sensitive to low voltages. As Jaime says, a lot of older cars didn't have relayed headlamps (although I would have expected Volvo to do so), so if you've not got them, the full current for the lamps is runnning through the entire wiring system. The best way to test this is to check ...


2

Have the lenses become cloudy? This can happen over time and you can buy kits to polish and clear them up. If they're not cloudy, check how many volts are getting to the lights themselves with a volt meter. I'm not sure how the circuit in your car works, but if it doesn't use relays to power the lights, your light switch can be absorbing some of the power.


2

The tailpipe and silencer assembly is what you have pictured. The tailpipe and silencer is at the end of your exhaust system. Because of its position in the system it gets hotter and colder more often, and corrodes more quickly then any other part of the exhaust. Exhausts tend to rust from the inside to the outside first. This is what has happened, and it ...


2

I don't know why he would beat on your car, as the problem will likely just return. The problem likely lies in one of these places: The tag in the key itself (RFID) read by the computers, the ring that provides the field required to read the tag, or the computer that recognizes the tag. Beating it fixes nothing.


1

Did he say why you needed new lower control arms? Usually the bushings just need to be replaced not the entire control arm. If he was talking about the CV joints needing to be replaced, they have seals and rubber boots that cover them. If the rubber boots or seals have cracked due to being old, it could let the grease escape from the CV joint. Then as the ...


1

They will absolutely fit, there are a few things you will need to do before running them, one is you are going to need or should use hub-centric rings to make that center bore the same size, otherwise expect vibrations at high speeds. Also you may want to run a spacer, because of the difference in offset with the volvo wheels. You should be able to source ...


1

You have a 9.5mm difference in offset between the two, and a 1.8mm difference in centre bore - so they will physically fit, but it is not recommended. The difference in offset means that the wheels will sit further in towards the centre of the car. This could lead to rubbing against the suspension or arches, although you should be able to check this to ...


1

The ABS diagnostic port is under the hood, in the same assembly as the OBD port. I have never been able to get information from it, however. The best instructions I've been able to find did not work when I tried them. I asked a question about this previously, but so far it does not have an answer: Reading ABS diagnostic codes on a Volvo 940


1

The first thing you should do is check for a blown fuse, it's very easy to blow a fuse when taking a battery out or installing a new battery. There is an ABS sensor near each of your four wheels, if one has gone bad or is disconnected, that will cause your ABS light to stay on. It's a 1992, so the garage may have to forego using any diagnostic readers and ...


1

Before investing in new switches, you might consider testing the wiring as well. Run your own, known-good wires from the switches to the window motor (this will require removing the interior trim from the door), and see what happens. While you have the door apart, you could also try lubricating the window mechanism. It might just be sticking.


1

Make sure you have completed all the routine maintenance specified by your owners manual or a repair manual. Specifically Replacing: Belts Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, Distributor, etc. Filters (Air, Fuel, Oil, Transmission Fluid) Drain and fill your Transmission Fluid and Coolant Additionally: When your coolant has been drained, check and possibly ...


1

Had a similar problem with my 2006 1.8 petrol s40. Immobilizer stuck on, "immobilizer, see manual" error message. I checked all fuses, wiring etc, lock unlock 5 times myth and disconnected my battery for half an hour! I was on the verge of calling an auto electrician out when I stumbled upon a post that advised me to turn the key all the way to the firing ...


1

Most of the model specific nature of an exhaust system is not the muffler itself but the piping and how it attaches to the underneath of the car. It has to be sized and bent properly to work its way through from the front to back. If you are just wanting to replace the muffler and tip, you should be able to purchase those parts individually and get a shop ...



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