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7

Most likely, one of the engine mounts are 'torqued'. You can try and neutralize the mounts. Loosen the through bolts of all mounts several (4-5) turns. Then start the car, and drive back and forth several feet (using quick taps on the gas and not just idling) over and over, and let it rest at idle a few seconds before turning off the engine. Now tighten all ...


5

Vibration felt in the steering wheel is usually caused by the front tires out of balance. That's the first place to look, other possibilities include: broken belt in the tire, out of round tire, a bent rim, a bent or out of round hub, wheel bearings. One of the things you can do to help narrow it down would be to rotate the tires, if the vibration in the ...


4

If "injector cleaning" products helped but only lasted for one tank, I would try spraying Seafoam directly in at the throttle plate rather than putting an additive in your fuel. This should be a lot more effective at cleaning the injectors. If that doesn't help, my best guess would be that the vibration is from unequal power from one or more of the ...


4

In my experience, Polyurethane bushes last longer than standard rubber ones, as the plastic doesn't perish in the same way that rubber does. As you mention, there is a price to this, as they are generally harder than the equavalent OEM bushes, however many manufacturers offer a variety of stiffnesses, depending on the intended use - some of the softest ones ...


3

There are a few possible things which could cause vibrations: When breaking hard, your discs could take up some heat and get warped, great article could be found here. Bad geometry could cause vibrations + uneven tyre wear (flat spots maybe?), see related article. Check wheel balancing, article here. I would recommend to check these first, there are ...


3

The vibration at speed is very unlikely to be the alignment. I would suggest getting your tires balanced. The most likely cause is that one is slightly out - perhaps a tire-weight fell off, or the wrong weight was put on last time you changed tires. - Bad alignment will eat your tyres faster than good alignment, but if all the shops you have been to say ...


3

The noise you are describing is likely the wear indicators on the brakes. They are small metal tabs that come in contact with the rotor when the pads nearly gone. It's designed to let you know that your brakes need to be changed. You mention that you just replaced your brakes, did you do all four wheels? It might be the lack of shims, or disc brake quite on ...


3

I also have a AWD Trailblazer, and low diff oil can cause uneven gear wear (mine is perennially low because I have a leaking diff seal which the dealer can't get out). As the oil heats up, the vibration can become more prominent because the thick oil is no longer damping the vibration. You may also want to check that your wheels are balanced. You might ...


2

Sounds like the Idle Air Control Valve and the Intake Manifold must be removed and cleaned. The vibration is worse when in gear than in neutral In gear there is a much greater load on the engine. Power is being transfered to the transmission and then to the wheels. This is going to cause the idle to drop a bit and this is where you'd feel the most ...


2

You replaced the engine mounts? I would guess that since you had to change the engine mounts that there is a good chance that the tranny mounts may need to be changed as well...what is the drivetrain assembly like in that car since it is fwd, sometimes if the driveshaft in a rwd car is unbalanced it will cause the car to shake


2

I had a bad vibration when cruising on highway, I did an alignment and changed my wheels bearing. The vibration was mostly gone but I got a "death wobble", which is a loud noise coming from the front at high speed. I changed my tie rod ends and steering damper, redone an alignment and now everything is fine. I'll do what Larry suggest first, this are the ...


2

The vast majority of vibrations that come and go at various speeds are wheel and/or driveshaft balance issues. They come and go due to exciting the suspension/steering when reaching resonant frequencies. Yours may be a wheel issue that shops would rather balance as well as they can than tell you you should replace a wheel. There are more expensive ways to ...


2

I would have commented but this is a little long. I suspect your vibration's behavior at higher speeds is more along the line of frequency rather than vanishing. I've had numerous of these situations and really it gets down to pinpointing the vibration with some good friend(s) that will go along for the not-so-fun troubleshooting ride. I would not assume ...


2

It can be very difficult to isolate if it us from the tires or the drive line.. but most of the time, it is the tires. Looking at the ties with the naked eye when there is no load on the tire is not very telling though. The best thing is to find a shop with a Hunter DSP 9000 or similar machine that measures so called road force. This will measure the tire ...


1

Firstly discs do not warp.Pads contain metal that deposit on rotor so when measured in a number of places it is assumed the disc is warped.Check balance weights on rim have not fallen off.Jack up front wheels one at a time;grasp tyre each side of centre and pull to and away from you.Any noise or movement may indicate that tension on bearings is incorrect


1

If this is a Jimny, then this is sadly expected. There are stories of people replacing the gearbox mount to resolve the issue, however I never got that far with my Jimny. I had replaced a number of bushings, got an alignment, and new alloy wheels, however the shaking was still there - just far less pronounced. Like you, the vibrations were fairly violent at ...


1

It's probably just the new motor mounts. If the new motor mounts are stiffer you will get more chassis vibration. I am a little surprised that shifting to neutral effects the vibration though. Is it automatic? Did they have to drop your transmission cross member or any drive shafts during the service. If so it could be something to do with that.


1

I have had this on various occasions on all my Subarus once they get old, and on my Forester STi at only 70k miles! Polyurethane bushes on the much harder STi suspension last less time than rubber - it seems they are so hard the impact transferred to them is higher (have to replace every 25k or so - but this one is set up for track, despite being my ...



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