Hot answers tagged

19

If it is burning it's oil, the oil is getting somewhere it shouldn't do - and changing the plugs and coil will make no difference to that! As the oil smoke is coming out of the exhaust, that suggests to me that the oil is getting into the cylinders - the most likely causes for this are a blown headgasket, failed valve stem seals, or failed piston rings. A ...


12

Sounds to me like the car is suffering from a boost leak - either the plumbing has a leak somewhere or the wastegate doesn't hold pressure properly. Does the car have a boost gauge and if it does, can you see if you're losing boost at the same time you get the noise? Normally you'll have a hard time hearing the wastegate if it's an OEM one as they all ...


6

Turns out the previous owner of the car adjusted the wastegate actuator in an attempt to increase boost pressure. The sudden loss of boost came about because the ECU forced the wastegate open in an attempt to keep the manifold attached to the engine ;) Kudos to whomever wrote the software for the Bosch Motronics unit.


6

This is what Vauxhall has to say about the front fog lights. Firstly, we need to remove the inner paneling (basically the bumper): Release left and right front wheel cut-out panel Unscrew 4x nuts (1) Pull out wheel cut-out panel slightly and fix in place Undo front panelling at top Unscrew 3x bolt (2) Release left and right wing protective ...


5

Engines are designed to withstand a certain amount of stress. When you exceed that threshold, longevity will start to deteriorate. I stated something to that effect in this answer. The engine has a redline where you shouldn't take its speed past. This redline is not the maximum speed which the engine can run, but more correctly the threshold which you ...


5

Since it's a 1.2 I'm betting it's petrol, so you don't have some of the issues that diesels suffer from. White smoke is often water. Grey/black smoke will be oil. Either way, something is getting into the combustion chambers which really shouldn't be there. My money is on the head gasket, because that can fail in a fairly on/off kind of way, but as other ...


4

Why was it redone? And was your block checked for warping? If it was warped, and not corrected, you could be facing the same problem.


4

If you're not sure why you would need one then no, it would not be a good purchase. You would be much better off telling us what's happening with your car: we might be able to be of assistance given some information on specific symptoms. The on-board diagnostic port will look something like this: It serves as an interface port that the engine computer ...


4

Who is affected? If your car has had any previous work on the heating system, I would STRONGLY advise that you take it to a local dealership. Non-genuine parts may have been used, which could overheat and catch fire. If you car meets all of these criteria, then you are definitely affected. Zafira B (all model variants) If your car design is not ...


4

I would suggest investing in a Haynes Manual for this car. One minor repair like this that you can do yourself will pay for it in savings. This is the part you are looking for, it's the thermostat housing, that I found on eBay. If I recall, it was for the 2011. Here is a video on how to change it a thermostat for a Vauxhall Corsa 1.3 (2004). Now it may ...


3

The Astra H has a concentric clutch slave cylinder which means the gearbox has to be removed to replace it, 5 to 6 hour job. Try holding the clutch pedal down on the floor, engine idling - car in first - handbrake firmly on. Just keep it held down for a while and wait. If the slave is faulty, after a little time the clutch will try to take up the drive and ...


3

Do you have a Haynes manual or similar for the car? They usually describe how to remove the various bits of trim... Before trying to remove the trim, have you tried cleaning the nozzle out with the tip of a needle or a fine bit of wire? The bottom photo shows the trim to be in four parts - the window surround (two parts), the lower panel and the lock ...


3

Yes, a reset could work, if the problem is that the ECU is used to the previous driver's driving style and his style was vastly different to your's. But it could also just be the way you drive. Do you drive more like Morgan Freeman or Vin Diesel? These cars are quite heavy on the juice in city driving. With mine, I get about 7.5l/100km on the highway going ...


3

I did a bit more research and it looks like this link sorts my issue: http://www.blower-motor-resistor.co.uk/vauxhall-vectra-c-blower-motor-resistor.html


3

It is likely the dual mass flywheel you found was for the diesel Astra. Some petrol engined cars do use them, but the Astra isn't one of them. Even if it was, failure of a petrol flywheel is very rare anyway - are you positive you need a new flywheel? Regardless, you should trust your mechanic or not use them at all. This sounds like a straightforward ...


3

I drive a gtc turbo and had the same problem. Check all the rear and front boost pressure/solenoids and their connecting rubber hoses and pipes....I spent lots on replacing parts, until I found a perished hose connector on the rear boost solenoid... never had a problem again... in fact I'm pushing 166kw on the wheels with no mods :)


3

The procedure has changed slightly from the end of November 2015 and half way December it was officially declared a recall by the DVSA and Vauxhall. In addition to the desciption above, Vauxhall also: 1. stick a piece of foam under the scuttle as a shield to avoid water going into the air inlet if the scuttle has been replaced badly. 2. replace the ...


3

Note: I've never replaced this part on this vehicle. Raise the front of the car. Look under the front bumper area. Is it uncovered? Can you access the fog light assemblies? If yes: simply remove the bolts holding them and pull them out carefully. If not: you have to pull the front bumper cover. I found this video that shows how to remove the bumper. Its a ...


3

The car will be fine, that's just the noise the starter motor/solenoid makes when the battery is flat. The solenoid switches on the motor and engages the motor's gear with the flywheel, allowing it to turn the engine. There is a strong spring which pushes the solenoid back to its resting position after use. When the battery is very low it can't supply ...


3

You can replace the firmware by entering developer mode and then going to the explorer mode in the developer options menu. EDIT: I have also mirrored the file on my MEGA in case it disappears or is deleted. From this forum thread First off, I accept no responsibility if you brick your head unit you are going too need to modify files stored on it to ...


2

I've search for an online procedure, without success. But looking how the lamp is built, it's looks like you have 2 bracket on each side of the lamp. Unless you can access it from behind the bumper (which I doubt), you'll need to remove the bumper. If unsure, maybe take some pictures of your setup and update your original post with them. Here's one image of ...


2

I thought I knew, but I'm not 100% sure. What you can do is open your bonnet and look at the gearbox. If there's a steel cable operating the clutch mechanism, you have a cable clutch. If it's a solid piece of steel, it's a hydraulic clutch. If it's not immediately clear where these things are, have someone operate the clutch and gearbox while you have the ...


2

The inability to communicate with the ECU could be explained by the lack of power from the battery. This could be due to: a flat battery (ruled out) a break in the wiring high voltage drop across the positive wire (assuming the ECU is negative-grounded)


2

obviously you tried penetrating oil.Try doing bolts up;may serve to crack any rust or paint.Failing that place a drift in centre of bolt and hit with a hammer to serve same purpose.Worst case scenario heat with an oxy torch that will expand then contract bolt making removal a cinch. CAUTION-be very aware of fuel leaks and remove battery from near proximity


2

Sounds very much like a worn blower motor so you at least have to get at the motor to find out what is worn. While you're that deep in the car you might as well replace it with a new one.


2

Looking at the diagrams, it looks like each lock has a motor and a microswitch to tell if it's locked or unlocked - presumably so you can't try and lock it when it's already locked or vice versa, or simply to reverse the polarity. The wire going directly to the motor (red and black) will be common to both. This wire will be positive for one action and ...


2

My first thought, having owned 3 Opels/Vauxhalls (including two Corsas), is the coil pack. When it starts to die, you get the symptoms you are describing. Your #2 cylinder's spark plug isn't firing properly, so under load conditions the spark may be too weak to ignite the air/fuel mix, causing a misfire. If I'm right, the problem should get progressively ...


2

Rather than connecting it to something in the display, you should run a hot lead down to your fuse panel and tie in there. You'll still need some way to reduce the voltage. Car battery voltage is 12+ vdc. The power which goes out through a USB device is 5vdc. In order to achieve this, you'll need to some how hide the power adapter behind the dash (or up ...


2

I don't see it helping any. The long term fuel trims on modern cars will adapt to conditions within 15 minutes of driving, and even those only have a minor impact. The short term fuel trims that have the most impact adapt pretty much instantly (hence the "short term"). All that said, resetting the ECU is easy, so feel free to go for it and let us know ...


2

Issue #1: You probably blew the second resistor. Sometimes it just happens. I'd take it back to the place you bought it from and tell them it was defective. Issue #2: It sounds as though your thermostat is stuck open and should be replaced. If coolant is allowed to flow unchecked through the system, you'll only get cold air through your HVAC until the ...



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